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Crank thrust washer replacement

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gjh2007

Jedi Warrior
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Hello all:

Just did my first oil change on my TR250 as stated in my previous post. Anyhow, I did notice some very small pieces of what appear to be brass (read thrust washers?) in the oil. I don't have a dial indicator, so haven't measured the end float at the damper pulley.

Ready to pull the pan and find the pieces in the bottom.

Can anyone give me their experience with doing new thrust washer & some pointers?

I have the Bentley book & the Williams resto book; which by the way I highly recommend.

Don't want to do any major work until I really get to run the car for a while & decide on my plan of attack. I do have a couple of punky spots on the chassis that need more inspection.

[ 03-03-2004: Message edited by: gjh ]

[ 03-03-2004: Message edited by: gjh ]</p>
 
Push or pry the front pulley back toward the engine. While you look for pulley forward movement, have someone step on the clutch pedal. This will force the crankshaft forward. If you can see more than a barely detectable forward movement of the pulley there could be a problem. You could do this same test with a dial indicator attached to get an accurate measurment.
D
 
Dave's suggestion above is a good starting point. Don't run the car if you feel there is too much looseness....you can ruin the crank.
There are different thicknesses of thrust washers available. More good info here:

https://www.vtr.org/maintain/thrust-washers.html
 
Thanks for the backup guys; I've read all of the articles, but want a real world opinion from one of us shade tree guys. Also will wear on the block be obvious if it's been run for too long like this? Where would the wear show up?
 
There will be wear on the block if the thrust washers fall out (which is disasterous)...otherwise, if they remain "in", only the crank (in the "cheek" area) will show any wear (and this would be normal).
I swap the thrust washers on my racer every year (and they always show a pretty good amount of wear). On a street car, every 30,000 to 50,000 should be plenty.
 
Im doing my TW's now and replacing the front one with a bronze alloy material that will wear much better than the stock steel. The procedure is easy but laborious because of the sump bolts. Do not remove the old TW's without first measuring your end float since you may be able to reuse the rear TW (it doesn't see the forces the front TW does). If you can reuse the rear TW, just subtract it's thickness and the desired endfloat thickness (0.006") from the total float. The result is the thickness of the new front TW you need. Check out https://users.arczip.com/zntech/tr6.html.

Rick O.
 
Thanks for add'l info guys; Rick, I can't seem to get the link to work, can you help me out?
 
Sorry Gary. Drop the period "." from the end of the URL. When I received the bronze TW my wifethought it was a piece of jewelry! Best $15 I've spent on the six since that case sale on Castrol 20W-50. Scott's dedication to the hobby is to be commended.

Cheers.

Rick O.
72 TR6
 
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