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crank is back

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blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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got my crank back yesterday. Put the motor back together. New tri metal bearings and bronze thrust washers. .005 over on the rear. Gave me an end float of .0032. Looking good. Cleaned it up and reprayed it last night. Going back in today!
 
Fast, good on ya.
 
unfortunatally I was so consumed on putting her back together I didnt take any great pics. Will when Its all done. I gotta say I think these TR6 bronze thrustwashers are the ticket. They are alloy bronze bearing all the way through so no wearing threw the beraing surface to cause catostrophid damage and they have quite a bit more contact surface area.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I gotta say I think these TR6 bronze thrustwashers are the ticket. [/QUOTE]
Is this a 1500, Scott??
:cheers:
Ed
 
yes 1500.

Wow heck of a day! Woudnt crank, than woudlnt start. All the gas went bad in the lines, fouled the plugs rechecked all the timing ok. starts. doesnt run very long. (Im also running colder plugs for the moment since my good set fouled.) Finally got her to run long enough to drive down the street and back. A bit of popping though. Tommorow Ill put the right plugs in check the timing and see if I cant keep it running. heres some pics.
IMG_2205.jpg


IMG_2207.jpg


IMG_2206.jpg
 
Man, that's nice work. Really looks great.
 
Got it running good today. Hotter plugs and adjusted the timing. Spun it around for a while to put some break in time on it. Dropped the oil. (Very clean) changed filter and drove it some more. Got the wide band sensor up and working. Running pretty lean(Mostly 15.5) so I guess Im going to have to play with some needles a bit. Also made a floor mount today to get the trailer in the garage while being able to drive her on and off. All in all a productive day.
IMG_2211.jpg
(With the exception of not fertilizing the lawn....)
 
Did you know hubcaps will fit over the headlights?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]yes 1500.[/QUOTE]

That IS what I thought, Scott. PLEASE tell us you (or machine shop?) PINNED the thrust washers!?!? :yesnod:

Ever goning to do that motor alone "install" again :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:?!?!?!?!? :rolleyes: :cry: :madder:

:cheers:
Ed
 
Scot. 15.5 is lean! Not horribly lean, but don't run it hard at that mixture or you may find yourself pulling the motor again. For racing, I would shoot for a 13.5 to 12.5 depending on your goals.
 
OOhh... thanks for clearing that up Morris, havent read my tuning manual yet but that is very good to know! The needle in my su was one that I spun down from the original that was way to lean... Before I had the sensor. Im shooting for 13.0. Ive got some playing around to do yet. But at least I know I still can spin down the needle Ive been using so far..




Ed Kaler said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]yes 1500.
Click to expand...

That IS what I thought, Scott. PLEASE tell us you (or machine shop?) PINNED the thrust washers!?!? :yesnod:

Ever goning to do that motor alone "install" again :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:?!?!?!?!? :rolleyes: :cry: :madder:

:cheers:
Ed [/QUOTE]

No pinning done. Planning to do frequent checks of the end play and replace them each season in the car. Not too worried about them dropping out now that I know what Im looking for. Motor alone install is the only way I like to do it... belive it or not. Just find it easier to avoid the scratching and bashing doing them seperatally. Got it down to a half a day project.... The whole front end is set up to dissemble in less than an hour. Fenders pop off in 5 minutes each..
 
Just for reference, my 1500 is running about about 12:1 air/fuel ratio. Your numbers would be OK for street use, but not so good for power or "safety" (not melting pistons).

I have been racing my 1500 for over 5 years with standard (non-pinned) thrust washers.
As long as you look at them every 25 hours or so, you'll be fine. I replace them after 25 hours of use no matter what, but they usually look fine. Thrust washers tend to wear out on street cars due to use of clutch "down" sitting at red lights. This is not such a big deal with racers.

Car looks great!
 
From earlier dyno testing on many different engines, we from the engine control group at DTU have determined best power around lambda 0.8 which is about 12.5 AFR. Best economy depends on the combustion chamber design but don't go above lambda 1.1 which is about 16.2 AFR, and certainly not above 14.5 on hard acceleration. Like they say, you'll be pulling the engine again shortly if you do.
 
Scotts car had blue tape on the headlights.

Does not do the car justice.

Hubcaps will fit over the lights to protect them or to blank the holes.
 
12.5 is what I have always heard is the magic number for power. Although, I also understand it's one of those razor's edge kind of things. Get much above 12.5 and you start to lose power pretty rapidly. I think your strategy of 13.0 is great. It puts you real close to optimal power, but also gives you some good fudge factor on either side.
 
Hey Donn,

What would you guess would be the best economy cruise mix for a 1500?
 
I set the idle at 12. I shaved the needle quite a bit more and got it to hit low thirteens under hard acceration and than quickly bounces back to 14.5-14.8 when the load goes away. I am correct in that I should be concerned with 13ish under load and or WOT correct? Cruising it leans out a bit.

BTW- definate power difference getting it down from high 15's. Think I may shave the needle some more to be able to bring the idle up to 12.5 and hard accel down to 12.5
 
14.5-14.8 cruise is perfect! And 13 under load is pretty good, too. I would be happy with that, personally.
 
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