TR2/3/3A Crank handle support

[DavidApp]

Put the front apron back on to check that everything still fits. While I was doing that I decided to check the front crank support fit. I had got new support rods and had to adjust the attachment points on the frame. I believe the car had been in a slight front end wreck so the mounting points may have got bent. I can now fit the rods without having to bend them like the old ones.
I notice there is a bracket in the center of the frame. Is there meant to be a brace attached from this point to the crank support?

David

 

[CJD]

That bracket is for the early "small mouth" front aprons. The wide mouth apron does not use it. I am sure you know, but there is a bolt that goes in the hole in your pic, to draw the apron up to the support.

 

[DavidApp]

Yes I have the bolt. Was thinking I may have been missing a support as well. The threaded rods were bent at strange angles so I got new ones.

My old TR2 had a fiberglass front apron and that did not offer any help to the crank support so I broke a couple of the threaded rods cranking the car. That was in the days when batteries died in stages not like now here today gone tomorrow.

David

 

[CJD]

It looks like you're back at work...good to see!

Yeah, the small mouth apron turns back under the car and the center is held steady using that bracket on the frame. The large mouth doesn't come that close to the frame, but they left the bracket on the later frame anyway.

 

[sp53]

looking good David!!!

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you.

Just got back to work that shows up better.

Spent some time on the wiring as I try to get back in the swing of things.

Need to get all the panels fitted so I can get painting. Beginning to cool off a bit here in Georgia. Working on the hood to front apron which is not matching up too well at the front corners. Did some of these cars come with poorly fitted panels?

Did take someones advice and ordered a roll of 5/16" copper/nickel tube to remake my fuel line and have got the moss fuel pump to carbs line on order.

David

 

[sp53]

I have found the sequence in which the bolts are tightened on the front fenders makes a difference in fitting things up. The first bolt I snug up is the “top” bolt in the door jamb that pushes the front fender forward sometimes 3/8 of an inch sometimes--then I put a bolt under that one down about 2 holes and look at the point at top of the shuttle to make sure the fender has moved forward and tight against the jamb. Next I pull the fender tight against the inner sill at the bottom to see how that lines up and pulls in--- then I will put a bolt n the engine compartment. If you tighten the ones in the engine compartment first, then you are stuck with that position and often the doors and inner sill are often not in line. Hope that makes sense.

Where exactly is yours not fitting?
steve

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Steve

Thanks for the tips.
Seems that each time you take a panel off and replace it the fit is a bit different.

In the light of day it does not look so bad. There is a large gap between the Bonnet and wings. I know that the trim will take up some of it. The worst part of the apron to bonnet fit is this section. The rest can probable be fixed John style with a thin skim of Bondo.

David

 

[CJD]

David, your side bonnet gap looks about right to me. The beading is about 3/16", and because it is located on the outer edge, it visually hides that gap, so it doesn't have to be as tight as many others. As long as it is consistent, like your's looks, it works out better to have it a bit wider to prevent accidentally hitting the wing when a state inspector slams your bonnet!?!

Yeah...that apron to bonnet match behind the headlight. That's about how they were stamped, I'm afraid. All you can do is fit your bonnet bumpers to where the bonnet looks the best...occasionally springing the apron and bonnet up or down in the center...and finally use a little glaze to match them up. I suspect this area was never that good from the factory even when these cars were new. Once again, it is visually masked by the height of the wings, so it is not obvious to most observers. Of course, once you guys are up to your current level of bodywork mastery...every detail nags you to no end!!

It reminds me of learning guitar at age 15. Before I learned how to "make" the music, I could enjoy simply listening to a song. After learning the guitar, however, I find myself dissecting the music instead of just listening. Bodywork is the same...it makes you forever a critic of every car you look at!

 

[sp53]

Yes the hood fender gap looks good to me also David, nice and even. One thing on the apron hood fit, I try and keep the apron above the hood maybe 1/6 if I can just so the air does not want to lift the hood off. I have heard a few stories about throwing the hood. Yours looks fine and once you get the dzus in and the apron bolted and the rubber hood deals in, it will look like the rest.

 

[DavidApp]

Hello John
Thank you

Not having studied this area on running cars so I have little to judge gaps and alignment by. I suspect that we try to do a better job than the Factory fresh cars.

I do not have to worry about State inspection in Georgia. Will have to have have a County Sheriff come by to check the car to get the Title transfered. Special form if the car was in pieces when it was purchased.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Took the apron off and slightly slotted the holes that hold the cross brace between the inner wings. That has allowed the apron to sit down much better. Just a very slight step now.

David