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TR6 Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel-TR6

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I am in the process of installing TSI Automotive's Aluminum Flywheel on my TR6 and the instructions are unclear as to the proper TORQUE SETTINGS for the 4 bolts holding the flywheel onto the end of the crank. I am hesitant to use the torque setting from my Bentley as I am not sure what the aluminum can or cannot handle. There are instructions in the box for various cars that this flywheel must fit, but none specific for this model, so I am thinking the instructions are generic.

Does anyone here know how much torque to set these big bolts in with. (I will be using some Locktite on the threads.)

This has got me at a standstill. Ted Schumacher is no where to be found and I hate to sit on my hands the rest of the weekend.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

I found it.....
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

So Bill............

post it!! How many pounds?

same, more, or less?

d
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

Same....70lbs..

Now I have the front oil seal leaking in the tranny. It's all your fault, Dale.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

I'd think the bolts would be the weakest link given this is held in compression and a softer material. Been a long time since my Strengh of Materials classes :smile:

What setting did you use?
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

Well, the 4 large bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crank still thread into the crank. And, because they are really only compressing against the high-strength aluminum alloy of the flywheel, I garnered that indeed no setting had to be changed. (I actually read the de-structions a third time and found that I had to use stock settings. Now, on the clutch, they supplies coarse-thread #8 bolts and lock washers and again said to use stock settings (about 24#), the coarse threads are stronger in a soft metal like aluminum because they get more "bite".
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

It's the FASTENER not the widget it attaches which will determine the bolt tension in most instances. TPI and diameter are the determinants.

You can never have enuff dedicated "twister" tools:
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

Bill, Did you use ARP Bolts and hardened washers and what type Locktite are you using?
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

The flywheel is a Fidanza, marketed by Ted Schumacher over at TSI Automotive. He sent the proper bolts and washers, all grade 8. At least the six little hatch marks said they were. I would think that Ted would use quality hardware, his reputation would hang on it. I used the red Locktite, for extra tight grip.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

I did use ARP for my head bolt though. Sweet stuff. And, they sold them to me at their regular price, which was 1/3 less than a major West Coast vendor. That begins with an M.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

I tried the ARP head stud kit when I was building my engine. Somehow, somewhere it all went pear shaped. The studs were not long enough. For some reason I got a short set of studs. Moss took them back with a return notice to ARP after I spent some time on the ARP tech line. Took my refund and had a set of socket head cap screws made up for it through a local hardware supply shop and cut to length at a local machine shop. Two sets made actually (planning ahead /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif ) for about half the cost of the ARP stud kit.

So now my head is secured with these cap screws. When it has to come off, it will be so easy since there wont be any studs. When it is necesarry, I will actually look forward to removing the head. How many TR6 owners do you hear say that? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

swift6 said:
So now my head is secured with these cap screws. When it has to come off, it will be so easy since there wont be any studs. When it is necesarry, I will actually look forward to removing the head. How many TR6 owners do you hear say that? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Shawn, am I hearing you say that your head studs are <u>one piece</u> bolts? I am confused. 'Splain.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

He substituted Allen-head bolts for the studs. Fancy-schmancy!!
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

My ARP studs are allen-headed, I guess for ease of placement or removal, certainly not for torquing, as the head studs alone shouldn't really be torqued, as such. Now if you want fancy, my nuts are 12 point. (Kinda rough on tighty-whiteys, that is why I wear boxer I guess.)
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

My nuts are visible (here we go again) in the "good news - bad news" post picture, right next to my exotic heater control valve.
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

...you could be arrested fer that, y'know...

Nice valve, BTW. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Re: Crank Bolt Torque Setting on Aluminum Flywheel

TR6BILL said:
swift6 said:
So now my head is secured with these cap screws. When it has to come off, it will be so easy since there wont be any studs. When it is necesarry, I will actually look forward to removing the head. How many TR6 owners do you hear say that? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Shawn, am I hearing you say that your head studs are <u>one piece</u> bolts? I am confused. 'Splain.
Click to expand...

Pretty much one piece if you don't count the hardened washers. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Pull out the cap screws and you can push the head sideways if you want. No more lifting it off the studs.

Like Doc said, Fancy...

Here is a photo... Socket Headed cap screws are VERY strong too. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

P1280008.jpg
 
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