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Car's back running. New thermostat fixed it right up. Wired a switch to make sure this never happens again. Now I just have to burn off all the spilled coolant!

I have a few observations/questions though.

1. It came back without the shroud. Anyone know if I can use the goodparts aluminum one with a (wizard cooling) aluminum rad?

2. The speedo reads low since I got the HVDA/W58 and the R200 diff. It reads 50 at 60 (checked vs 2 other cars). Anyone had this problem? Anyone care to suggest a fix?

3. It is hard to start in the cold, even with the hi torque starter (which is awesome). Is this a known thing with the triples - only 2 chokes remember - or is it a setup issue?

4. It stalls when you let off the gas after its been running for a bit. It also struggles to idle smoothly. Again, setup or something else? I'm wondering if the cam - designed and optimised for a supercharger - is having an affect here.

I have a new distributor to fit this w/e. I also have a ton of stockpiled replacement parts that I should bolt on, and it needs some tidying. I'm going to take it for a run tomorrow if its warm enough to try to decide if I'm going to keep it. If I do it'll get rewired this winter.

If anyone has suggestions to help with any of the things above, that'd be great.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

TIA, Alan
 
#2 can be re calibrated to new drives. I would wait until everything else is sorted out. Don't think it is a big as long as you know what the majors speed ratios were.
 
1. I have a GoodParts polished shroud that I can measure for you, but not until tomorrow evening.

2. Agree

3. Which tri-carb setup are you using? If it's Jeff's, have you called him?

4. How is valve adjustment? Being too tight can sometimes cause this problem.

I'll check back tomorrow night. Good luck!
 
Hey, Alan -

Do I detect a change in the wind? Ya warmin' up a bit to 'er now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Mickey
 
Not really. I might if I can drive it a bit without something breaking on it. I only fixed it because I'd have taken the first semi-reasonable offer if it had stayed up on stands, just to see the back of the thing.

Oh I forgot to mention with #2 - the reason I'm confused is that the new diff is a 3.69:1, same as the stock Triumph diff, and the wheel/tire size was calculated to be the same as stock, so I figured the speedo ought to be unaffected. I know somewhere like Nisonger can recalibrate it, I'm just puzzled as to why it needs it!

The tri-carb setup is the goodparts one btw.
 
If it is a mechanical speedo it would be pretty easy to make it read 60 at 60... question is what it would read at other speeds.

That is what I would do first, especially as you think the rear end ratio and tire size have not changed from stock.

Tony Rhodes' excellent site details this:

https://mywebpages.comcast.net/rhodes/
 
Alan, hope the car ran great for you and that your are now in love. A few things to sort out when you can drive it makes a lot of difference.
As for the speedo, I'm trying to remember correctly here, but I think there is one for overdrive and one not, you may need one or the other to replace yours. Wayne
 
Hi Alan,

Glad to hear you are making some progress! I think we have all appreciated the effort being made to improve the car and shared in your frustrations at times. I hope you are over the last big hurdle and on your way to smooth sailing.

1. I can't really advise much about the shroud, but most can be adjusted by trimming or adding a little, as needed. I use a black plastic TR6 shroud on my TR4 that is a little short of the stock radiator, but plan to go to an aluminum rad eventually so will not be doing final modifications on that shroud until the rad is designed, built and installed. You might see some overheating driving around without a shroud, so it could be a good idea to rig up something, even just from cardboard temporarily, while working on a more permanant solution. If a custom installation is needed, cardboard can be used to mock up some trial designs, anyway.

2. If all other things are equal, the only thing left is a gear drive at the gearbox that's different and causing the speedo error. I'd talk with HVDA and see if he has any suggestions. It might be a common problem and he might have an easy solution.

The previous post is right on suggesting recalibrating the speedo as a possibility. But, another option is a drive gear change at the gearbox. I'm not familiar with the Toyota gearbox, so can't say what the options are there: the speedo drive might be easily changed or not.

3 & 4 might well be related and sound to me like tuning issues more than anything. As much effort, time and money as you have put into the car, has it been tested on a dyno and exhaust gas analyzer? Could be worthwhile! Some other ideas:

I agree too tight valve lash setting might be part of the problem. With higher lift cams the valves often need to be set quite a bit looser than with stock cams, to allow for expansion. Valve clearance changes as the engine warms up. Worse case, the valves never close completely and compression suffers badly. With a high performance cam the idle might need to be set higher than normal, too.

Ignition timing - in fact all the parts in the ignition system for that matter - and fuel delivery are the other likely other areas I'd suggest to look at. The new distributor might make a big difference, but the coil, even the plugs and wires might make a difference, too. You are using fuel injection, some fine tuning of that might be needed, too but I haven't a clue what to suggest (There is some discussion of tuning the Lucas P.I. system in Kas Kastner's latest book, that may shed some light on things). I'd also look for any possible manifold or vacuum leaks.

Keep us posted!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Alan, I haven't installed any kind of FI on it. I bought a triple ZS setup, using the goodparts kit back in May so I could run it over the summer (ha ha). I *had* intended to do the FI this winter. No way that's happening now.

It's been gone over exhaustively for manifold leaks, it has a new lucas sport coil and new moroso wires. plugs of course are new - he had to go 1 colder to get it to run better istr. I know fuel delivery is ok now, that was part of the original problem.

Valves were supposed to be adjusted when it was on the dyno. I'll check them if I can face it this w/e.

I went out in it today - put 40 or so miles on it. It's still not 100%, but at least it runs. It's got a LOT more power than stock.

I'm not feeling any tender feelings for it though, I spend my whole time listening to the engine, waiting for something to go wrong again...
 
[ QUOTE ]
I spend my whole time listening to the engine, waiting for something to go wrong again...

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Know how you feel there. I did that for the first 1,000 miles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Alan, the Goodparts shroud will fit.

Open your valve lash to 16 (I) and 18 (E).

Put some really loud mufflers on for a few months and you will fall in love again.
 
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