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TR6 Could this be our answer for TR6 rear brakes?

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Hmmm. The more that I look at this, the more that I don't like a caliper on the bottom of the rotor.
 
I'd guess the chances of fowling/wacking the low slung caliper are small but it is a poss.
Is anyone using a similar unit?
Properly engineered drums do work well enough when combined w/front discs, why do this unless racing?
 
PeterK said:
bowtie6.com has a similar approach utilizing a custom bracket and 240/60/80z rotors. This one uses Wilwood calipers.

https://www.bowtie6.com/brakes.htm
Click to expand...

Actually, mine are not mounted low like the ones mentioned. Mine are up higher away from any debris. Plus this does not expose any of the caliper to any possibility of being damaged being so low on the trailing arm.

My front calipers are Wilwoods. I also have a Wilwood proportioning valve, which is essential to make this work properly.

I am extremely pleased with the results and yes, they are substantially better than stock. I do not race my car, but having disc brakes on all four corners offers a great breaking advantage. I would not have it any other way...

joe
 
FYI, the guy who made the ones on ebay wrote this up on the 6pack team.net list, here is a link to some other photos of the setup.

TR6 rear disks

Can't use them on my 4, but I always like nice engineered things like this.

Randy
 
Joe,

Do you have any pics showing the emergency brake cable installation? Are you selling a conversion package of sorts?

Great site by the way. I apologize for not knowing about you and your work. I learn something every day here.
 
Brosky said:
Do you have any pics showing the emergency brake cable installation? Are you selling a conversion package of sorts?
Click to expand...

Thanks. There is a lot of info about how I built bowtie6 in my website...

The emergency cable on mine believe it or not, is the original TR cable. When the transmission tunnel was made (it is aluminium) the handbrake handle was moved back about 2 or 3 inches. This enabled enough slack for the handbrake mechanism. I wanted to run Wilwoods on the rear, but they do not make a caliper with a cable actuated handbrake (they do offer one, but basically it is a small drum inside the caliper and that is too complicated). At any rate, the handbrakes work flawlessly.

I do not sell any 'kits'. There is too much liability in this and there are too many people out there wanting to do this on the cheap. So, I don't want to take the risk.

joe
 
To this rookie, It looks like too many hodged podged parts
cobbled together. Much room for installer error.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonod.gif I'll stick to drums
 
It looks to me like the wheel will be moved out (increasing rear track) by both the positioning of the hub (spacer effect of the caliper bracket) as well as the clamping of the rotor under the wheel. May be a consideration for tire clearances and suspension geometry.
 
Tinster said:
It looks like too many hodged podged parts cobbled together. Much room for installer error.
Click to expand...

Far from it - the system I have on bowtie6 is no 'hodge podge' or 'cobbling' of parts.

The calipers have been selected for several reasons, among them the fact that they offer a nice way to adapt the handbrake cable; they don't leak and they are readily available. The calipers will only go one way and there is no error about it. In addition, the rotors I have were found to have the same bolt pattern so there is nothing exotic about them.

As far as geometry changes go: in my setup the adapter that holds the caliper is only slightly thicker than the backing plate used by the original drum brakes (which I don't use) and this is not enough to 'widen' the track in any way to cause problems. Besides, I have over 6000 miles on my setup with no adverse effects except for the fact the car stops very nicely.

A great amount of time and fabrication went into this design to make it safe and easy to work on. I guess to each his own, I don't care for drum brakes... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

joe
 
I'd be more concerned about the longer studs that are neccessary and the extra stuff they have to support. Those spindly little studs are problem as it is being threaded into the aluminium swing arm. Ask Tinster. He has a good story about those.

At mimimum, the A-arm should be heli-coiled.

Bowties setup looks much better.
 
My setup did nor require different studs and no, I do not believe in helicoils. My control arms were in pristine shape and that included the studs. I agree with you in the fact the studs need to be in excellent shape. This is one of the reasons this cannot be done cheaply or with less than perfect components.

joe
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
Joe;
I like your setup very much.

And, I bet if you were to take each assembly and weigh it, you'll find the discs are lighter.
As far as safety and only for racing, I'd rather have the best brakes on a vehicle for the road as not everyone there knows how to drive, so there is more chance for a problem.

JMHO
Dave
 
As a light pole increases in height (length) the supporting
foundation must be made deeper and usually wider.

A real white knuckle ride when the 5/16" steel hub studs
strip out of the aluminum trailing arm at 40 mph going
around a turn and the wheel hub comes off.

The trailing arm aluminum "foundation" cannot be made
deeper to compensate for the additional length of the new
5/16" studs. Wider perhaps, but the limited thread depth
is the ultimate underlying potential train wreck.

For me, the maximum 14# of torgue on the T/A studs does
not instaill great confidence of strength or pull out
resistance.

I mean no offense to a nice looking alternate rear braking
system.
 
Don't know enough about the Ebay version, but as to Joe's setup, and all the other wonders on his website, all I can add is "WOW". Amazing work on that frame, Joe.

Randy
 
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