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TR6 Cost to rebuild TR6 overdrive tranny.

2wrench

Luke Skywalker
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Looking for an engine. Seller says may consider
selling a running engine (still in the car) as well as
an overdrive tranny (still in the car). What do I look
for to acknowledge that it is what it is? I've never
seen one. I suppose a J type is correct for my '74,
right? Are there numbers to look for someplace?

Is finding an overdrive right up there with finding
an original factory hardtop?
 
Opps, oh yeah, and if I were to buy a junk tranny, what
kind of numbers can I expect to put it right (rebuild)?

Thanks.
 
I would rate the overdrive higher, depending on the price.
Hardtops, unless you use them year round, get in the way all of the time they are off the car unless you rig a pulley system to hang them from the ceiling.
Cost of rebuilding a tranny is totally reflective on what it needs and the hourly rate of the person doing the work. Bearings and synchros are a given. Most other items aren't replaced unless necessary.
J type would be correct for '74. A types will also work. Some people prefer the J types and others would only use A's. I can't comment since I have never had a J type.
 
I agree. IMO, hard tops are always where you don't want them to be.

In June 2006, I rebuilt my TR6 transmission, (no overdrive) but including a clutch and doing all the work myself, I spent at least $475 on parts. -including a great deal on a "parts" transmission because I needed a new 1st gear w/countershaft assembly. (The clutch was $180.)
 

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Not all old transmissions are rebuildable. Some time back I sent my transmission (non-overdrive) to TRF as a core for a rebuild. What a waste of freight. The whole unit was junk, as I thought. Essentially every gear was chipped. I knew that but sent it anyway. A good rebuilder has to hoard parts for these 30-50 year old cars as they don't make gears anymore. I have always since relied on John Esposito at Quantum. I am sure there are others around the country.
 
If it really is an OD trans, that's a score. I rebuilt a junk trans over the summer and replaced the exact same parts as TexasK-head except for the speedo assy. The TRF gearbox rebuild kit is a good starting point. Count on using new countershaft thrust washers; I needed a tophat bush, which is not in their kit. Cost was about $350 for parts.

I got lucky and found a local shop with a good TR6 laygear mixed in with their MG gears. I used an early press-in type countershaft bearing at the rear because it has more needle bearings in it. It was a cave-man kind of rebuild with no real special tools, but I had nothing to loose. Time will tell, with 2200 miles done so far.

Jeff
TR6 CF13816U
 
TRopic6 said:
It was a cave-man kind of rebuild with no real special tools...

That is one of the funniest statements I have ever read.
 
Here's a special tool equivalency chart ...
 
Randall,

Very clever to include the "Claw Hammer" version rather than the standard automotive ball-pein version. The Claw will work wonders as a replacement for the puller.

The only solution that could be any better would be to have two (2) claw hammers at once.

That is the ultimate and rare in most cases.

Having three is not really practical, as we all only have two hands at most.
 
Brosky said:
Having three is not really practical, as we all only have two hands at most.
Except that some of us have friends ... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Alas, I cannot take credit for the funnies. I just came across them while perusing a humor group on USENET. Trevor Boicey is the author, and you can find more on his web page.
https://www.boicey.com/comics.html
 
Other than a copper knockoff hammer, wood and some drifts to tap bearings on & off, the only special tool used was this rear extension puller I built:

Of course, you don't need it to remove the OD unit from the main box.

Jeff
TR6 CF13816U
 

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