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Correct Paint Color AND Horler Book

Jim_Gruber

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Is the Horler Book section on Correct Paint Color for various Spridget Parts available on a WIKI or Reference Section somewhere?
 
SO guys question was for Dual Brake Master on a BE - Correct Color is? Black or Silver?
 
I thought they were all rust colored. ;)
 
In all seriousness... I think they were black with a natural metal top plate. (and metal cap)
 
Tks
 
Jim, I had thought the above but others say NO painting anything was OEM... makes since because the B fluid toast any paint anyway...
 
No paint on the dual master cylinder. All related pieces and parts were gloss black.
 
No paint? So then they are all originally rust colored?
I guess you could paint it a "cast metal" color. Most of them I see are black ... I guess for practical reasons (easy touch up).
 
Sounds like a good use of clear then. Gerard sent me pics of my finished dual master and it looks so good as finished and sand blasted metal. Now need to see if clear Rustoleum needs a primer underneath. Sort of negates the use of clear otherwise unless only as a protective coat.
 
Clearing over ferrous metals does not prevent the rust color. I'd paint it a "cast metal gray". I thought this car was going to be modified with a 1275 and such. Why fret about original details in small things when there is a glaring non original part nearby.

It is your car, so you should do as you please, but I was curious as to your logic.
 
Trevor,

Yeah there is that glaring 1275 thing in there. I saw one painted black for the Pedal box and Silver for the Dual Master. Since car will be white, the pedal box should be white as well with black pedals. I like the picture of white pedal box but paint is not purchased yet. Hmmm sure I could got with a Rustoleum White pedal box, finish dual master in black, silver top, put it all together so sub assembly is finished and then go back and mask off the whole assembly to paint the part of the pedal box that shows in final matching shade of white. I'm just trying to finish up a sub-assembly so it can go into the box until I'm ready for it. Want to move on to other things to be restorared and painted and the list is long. Got the wishbones back from Apple Hydraulics last week and they look great. Nice job done on the metal bushings. Now to find the spare fulcrum pin to test fit it. It's in my shop and I think I know where it is.
 
So, Gerard isn't going to plate it?
If not, there's this option:
https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-gray-aerosol-13-oz.html


Steve,

If you are referring to the cad plating, that soon became a non-option as we found that heavily rusted castings tended to stain the plating. Good condition castings were not a problem, but it was too unpredictable to continue.

Jim's casting was very heavily rusted, and would have not been a good candidate for plating. You can see the before and after below.

I suggested to Jim that he go with black, silver or "cast iron" brake fluid resistant paint. Powder coating is probably the best option, but should be done before the sleeving/rebuild procedure. They should be painted immediately or they will begin to flash rust fairly quickly, especially when handled with bare hands.

Jim has received hi MC as of this morning, so hopefully, we'll hear from him with any comments.

WP_001365.jpgWP_001384.jpg
 
Thanks Gerard once again for your excellent work. Oh the details, the details. I will handle with gloves and paint immediately. It sure looks better than before. Now to get my hands on the late backplates I need to do a road trip to Cincinnati to pick up. Subassemblies are coming togather. Have everything now for Front suspension conversion to discs, have reworked Wishbones with new metal bushings, a list at least of all remaining parts and pieces needed to finish brake conversion.
 
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