Correct color of carb heat shield, starter, and generator?

[christophe]

Everything on the 61 Healey is painted healey green. What color should the starter, generator, and carb heat shield be?

Thanks

 

[DerekJ]

The same colour. Even some of the rubber hoses were painted green.

 

[christophe]

The same colour. Even some of the rubber hoses were painted green.

Great, thanks! I have seen where some restorations have the starter and generator painted black and the heat shield a gray color.

 

[Gearhead_Garage]

The same colour. Even some of the rubber hoses were painted green.

I have always thought the appearance of the Healey engine bay with the acres of that goofy green paint was a disappointment when compared to the svelte curves of the body. All the Healey contemporaries had much nicer looking engines and I always thought it was the Healey's only real fault.

While I respect a nicely detailed original engine bay, I didn't want to look at one.

 

[Healey Nut]

I really don't understand this whole " has to be correct" thing . Its your car do what you like . I don't do concourse and never will I add personal touches to my cars . Small subtle things . Always stainless steel on exposed fastners in the engine bay . Polish up and clear coat the copper piping . Polish the dashpots etc etc . Again its your car do what you want . I much prefer to look at cars where owners have strayed from the concourse look and added personal touches , it personalizes the car and shows what can be done with a little more thought and time .

 

[andrea]

Here some good photos
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/DropBox?noredirect=1#5455601709579770818
Engines arrived to AH plant pre assembled and tested --and (probably) paint with olive green normally applied by Austin to the standard units- less carbs and intake and exhaust collectors that will be applied after the repaint at the AH plant- where units was painted as normally used on marine engine- with no insulation and included the generator and the starter il light metallic green
I agree with Derek also the belts are originally painted LMG in this process
This system can be confirmed by some engines find with the original olive green paint -probably put in the line
for insufficient re-paited unit issues-friday cars??

 

[andrewss]

Its your car so you do what you want with it... there will always be some smart arse that will find something to criticise even if you try and be Healey correct..

 

[christophe]

The car doesn't retain its original drivetrain anyway, so I am not super concerned about it being factory correct. I was just curious to know what is and is not correct. Thanks for the tip on the copper pipe...i plan to polish it!

 

[Gearhead_Garage]

The car doesn't retain its original drivetrain anyway, so I am not super concerned about it being factory correct. I was just curious to know what is and is not correct. Thanks for the tip on the copper pipe...i plan to polish it!

I used the polish and satin clearcoat on a lot of components. It gives them a sheen without looking shiny, They clean easily and they don't tarnish.

For copper or brass I use a wire brush or steel wool to get them clean, then metal polish to shine. Then I clean with Prep-All to remove the polish residue before clearcoating with Wurth clear wheel paint.

For steel parts like the air cleaners or throttle linkage, I use my wire wheel to shine them up as uniformly as possible. Then some metal polish if necessary. Then Prep-All and clearcoat.

For fasteners, I use the wire wheel but hit them with a shot of cadmium-look spray paint before a shot of clear.

The best trick is to bake them at about 200-250 degrees in a toaster oven for about 5 minutes after the clear coat. It really hardens the paint. I bought a cheap toaster oven for the shop after the wife complained.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I used the polish and satin clearcoat on a lot of components. It gives them a sheen without looking shiny, They clean easily and they don't tarnish.

For copper or brass I use a wire brush or steel wool to get them clean, then metal polish to shine. Then I clean with Prep-All to remove the polish residue before clearcoating with Wurth clear wheel paint.

For steel parts like the air cleaners or throttle linkage, I use my wire wheel to shine them up as uniformly as possible. Then some metal polish if necessary. Then Prep-All and clearcoat.

For fasteners, I use the wire wheel but hit them with a shot of cadmium-look spray paint before a shot of clear.

The best trick is to bake them at about 200-250 degrees in a toaster oven for about 5 minutes after the clear coat. It really hardens the paint. I bought a cheap toaster oven for the shop after the wife complained.

Don't let your wife catch you using the dishwasher to clean your chrome wire wheels! Cascade complete works well with spot free rinse.(don't ask how I know this)

 

[AUSMHLY]

I have always thought the appearance of the Healey engine bay with the acres of that goofy green paint was a disappointment when compared to the svelte curves of the body. All the Healey contemporaries had much nicer looking engines and I always thought it was the Healey's only real fault.

While I respect a nicely detailed original engine bay, I didn't want to look at one.

I agree.

 

[DerekJ]

Those engines are too polished!

Here's one that works hard for its living:wink-new:

 

[AUSMHLY]

I'm a daily driver. Always looks "too polished"