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Correct/best order for front suspension rebuild
- Thread starter tdskip
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It's an easy job - I'd suggest you buy a kit from any of the usual suspects. I suspect VB will have theirs on sale next month (their big annual sale). There's a good chance you will have to cut out the old kingpins anyway
Do one side at a time! (don't ask how I know) then you will have a point of reference.
One "might as well" when you are there is ball joints - they are cheap and easy even if you don't pull the whole steering rack.
Another is caliper rebuild.
Those two "might as wells" would only add a couple of hours to the job.
Do one side at a time! (don't ask how I know) then you will have a point of reference.
One "might as well" when you are there is ball joints - they are cheap and easy even if you don't pull the whole steering rack.
Another is caliper rebuild.
Those two "might as wells" would only add a couple of hours to the job.
V
vagt6
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Skip, you'll love the car's handling after you finish the rebuild. I just finished mine, completely rebuilt the whole front suspension in my '74 MK III Midget (including the steering rack - it was toast) and it's great, better than new. Had rotors turned, new ceramic brake pads, too. Car stops noticably better (I have SS brake lines).
One BIG surprise we got was the lower A-arms were dangerously cracked! Both A-arms had visible, longitudinal cracks in them, apparently originating where the sway bar attached (I installed a smaller, 3/8" sway bar in my rebuild - the bigger bar seems like overkill in a street car). It's a <span style="font-style: italic">miracle</span> I didn't lose the whole front suspension on one of my "spirited" drives to car shows late last summer. Please be sure to <span style="text-decoration: underline">carefully</span> inspect your A-arms! They take a lot of stress, and they're 30++ years old, too.
Also, don't forget your wheel bearings, might as well do it all while you're in there.
I used rubber bushes, FWIW, just to stay "somewhat" original and they are very satisfactory. I used poly bushes in previous Triumph jobs and they noticably stiffened the ride. Didn't want this for the Modget. My rear suspension is pretty new so the car's suspension is now new, and essentially stock.
End result: it handles surprisingly well. Just a little body roll, but easy to control. Soaks up bumps and potholes nicely, no rattles! I'd forgotten how well-balanced a Midget is: handling is smooth and predictable with practically no under/oversteer. Darn close to a modern car and a heckuva lot more fun!!!
I think some folks might like a bit tighter suspension than my setup, but I don't race or thrash this car (well, at least not much :b) so my "original" suspension setup is perfect for me. Again, I'm surpised at how soft the ride is, but with really great handling.
Please keep us informed. I wish I'd posted photos of my rebuild, but I had two guys helping and they didn't want to pose for photos.
Good luck!
One BIG surprise we got was the lower A-arms were dangerously cracked! Both A-arms had visible, longitudinal cracks in them, apparently originating where the sway bar attached (I installed a smaller, 3/8" sway bar in my rebuild - the bigger bar seems like overkill in a street car). It's a <span style="font-style: italic">miracle</span> I didn't lose the whole front suspension on one of my "spirited" drives to car shows late last summer. Please be sure to <span style="text-decoration: underline">carefully</span> inspect your A-arms! They take a lot of stress, and they're 30++ years old, too.
Also, don't forget your wheel bearings, might as well do it all while you're in there.
I used rubber bushes, FWIW, just to stay "somewhat" original and they are very satisfactory. I used poly bushes in previous Triumph jobs and they noticably stiffened the ride. Didn't want this for the Modget. My rear suspension is pretty new so the car's suspension is now new, and essentially stock.
End result: it handles surprisingly well. Just a little body roll, but easy to control. Soaks up bumps and potholes nicely, no rattles! I'd forgotten how well-balanced a Midget is: handling is smooth and predictable with practically no under/oversteer. Darn close to a modern car and a heckuva lot more fun!!!
I think some folks might like a bit tighter suspension than my setup, but I don't race or thrash this car (well, at least not much :b) so my "original" suspension setup is perfect for me. Again, I'm surpised at how soft the ride is, but with really great handling.
Please keep us informed. I wish I'd posted photos of my rebuild, but I had two guys helping and they didn't want to pose for photos.
Good luck!
Tom Rynne
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I did my front end 2 years ago. I opted to have the entire front assemblies done by Eric Jones in Delaware, OH. 740-363-2203. Not sure if he still does them as a sideline?
Having done the saw, torch, swear, bleed routine in the past his price of $375.00 for both sides was a complete bargain.
I did not go to poly bushes but may as the rubber wears. I only am driving maybe 500-1,000 miles on Little Blue yearly as original milage is up to 18,000+ now.
I had no issues wth the 3/4 sway bar I use as far as the A arms but it did destroy the sheet metal where the mounts bolt so I added 3/16 steel here this fall.
Having done the saw, torch, swear, bleed routine in the past his price of $375.00 for both sides was a complete bargain.
I did not go to poly bushes but may as the rubber wears. I only am driving maybe 500-1,000 miles on Little Blue yearly as original milage is up to 18,000+ now.
I had no issues wth the 3/4 sway bar I use as far as the A arms but it did destroy the sheet metal where the mounts bolt so I added 3/16 steel here this fall.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Folks may not be aware but Eric Jones longtime passed away last year. Peter C. did receive his tooling I do believe and he is doing A-Arm Rebuilds. Contact Peter, I'm sure his A-Arm rebuilds will equal the quality of his Shock rebuilds. NFI, just have a set I need to get to him over the winter for a rebuild. A very satisfied shock customer.
Now other iotems to consider rebuilding. Depending on the year of your Spridget, consider replacing hte pinion gear. Parts are quite cheap for the early racks, Pre '72 I believe. Bugsy my '68 had significant play in the rack and changing the pinion gear which is a simple bolt in really helped. For later racks that same pinion gear is $75-80 last time I looked vs. < $10.00 for the earlier racks.
If you do unbolt your rack, be sure to clean out the rack mounting holes with a bottoming tap. Lots of crap gets in there. I changed bolts as well but be sure you get the correct length as if not bolts will bottom in holes and rack will not get tight enough and will move sideways. Don't ask me how I know. Rack clamps I lined the inside with a piece of bicycle inner tube, Don't want to use inner tube on both sides or the horn will no longer work
Be careful of torque specs. That's aluminum you are bolting to.
I replaced all bushings and mounts and every little bit I did added to the way Bugsy drove and tracked. I added a sway bar from a 72 or 73 and that helped as well. Bugsy still handles like he is on rails 9 years later. I went from a Sprite that literally changed lanes when hitting a tar strip, yes my front end was that back, scary bad now that I think about it to absolutely SWEET!!! Don't forget the shocks in the rear and spring bushings as well back there. Both ends of the car need to work together.
Again NFI.
nosimport@mailbag.com
Peter Caldwell
World Wide Auto Parts
2517 Seiferth Rd., Madison, WI 53716
(800) 362-1025 Fax (608) 223-9403
Now other iotems to consider rebuilding. Depending on the year of your Spridget, consider replacing hte pinion gear. Parts are quite cheap for the early racks, Pre '72 I believe. Bugsy my '68 had significant play in the rack and changing the pinion gear which is a simple bolt in really helped. For later racks that same pinion gear is $75-80 last time I looked vs. < $10.00 for the earlier racks.
If you do unbolt your rack, be sure to clean out the rack mounting holes with a bottoming tap. Lots of crap gets in there. I changed bolts as well but be sure you get the correct length as if not bolts will bottom in holes and rack will not get tight enough and will move sideways. Don't ask me how I know. Rack clamps I lined the inside with a piece of bicycle inner tube, Don't want to use inner tube on both sides or the horn will no longer work
Be careful of torque specs. That's aluminum you are bolting to.
I replaced all bushings and mounts and every little bit I did added to the way Bugsy drove and tracked. I added a sway bar from a 72 or 73 and that helped as well. Bugsy still handles like he is on rails 9 years later. I went from a Sprite that literally changed lanes when hitting a tar strip, yes my front end was that back, scary bad now that I think about it to absolutely SWEET!!! Don't forget the shocks in the rear and spring bushings as well back there. Both ends of the car need to work together.
Again NFI.
nosimport@mailbag.com
Peter Caldwell
World Wide Auto Parts
2517 Seiferth Rd., Madison, WI 53716
(800) 362-1025 Fax (608) 223-9403
