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TR2/3/3A Copper pipe from pump to carbs

karls59tr

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I want to replace the non stock pipe the PO installed. What is the correct size 3/16...1/2". Is the pipe just copper or copper nickel or something else?
 

Frank_D

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Try Moss part 371-960, Karl. Depending on your vacuum unit you have other options to suit you application. Look under Ignition/distributor.
 
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karls59tr

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Not the vacuum line but the fuel line as in 376 220. I want to buy the copper pipe locally rather than the Moss part since I do not need the stock fittings since I am running an electric fuel pump.
 

CJD

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Copper is not recommended, as it will eventually crack from vibration. The original fuel line is steel. NAPA and other suppliers sell easily bent steel tube that you can use to fabricate the lines. You will,, of course, need fittings and a flare tool.
 
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karls59tr

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Copper is not recommended, as it will eventually crack from vibration. The original fuel line is steel. NAPA and other suppliers sell easily bent steel tube that you can use to fabricate the lines. You will,, of course, need fittings and a flare tool.
Would that be 3/8" steel tubing?
 

Hamish Racing

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Karl
May be consider just running fuel tube round the back of the engine along the square box section in front of the battery.
it’s more direct and cooler.
in my pic it’s via an elec pump on the left but worked just the same with the mechanical pump.(highlighted in yellow) Just need to swap over the carb float bowl lids.
But I realise it’s not a modification for everyone.
 

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karls59tr

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Karl
May be consider just running fuel tube round the back of the engine along the square box section in front of the battery.
it’s more direct and cooler.
in my pic it’s via an elec pump on the left but worked just the same with the mechanical pump.(highlighted in yellow) Just need to swap over the carb float bowl lids.
But I realise it’s not a modification for everyone.
Good idea. How is it fastened to the frame there in front of the battery?
 

Nobbster77

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I have used copper tube fuel line since 92 with no cracks, the rubber connection and the bends dampend down any vibration which will prevent work hardening and fatigue but even using steel pipework its always worth checking the pipes reguarly for cracks
Charleyf has the pipe dimensions spot on

Steve
 
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