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cooling

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Aloha Nick,

You can easily make one out of heavy poster material, something like "railroad board" which is about 1/16 th of an inch thick. Here is a link to a catalog illustration:

t.asp


The duct is the width of the top cross piece the same as the radiator and about 3 inches high, the height of the upper radiator tank. the side pieces are connected with three pop rivets. The sides have about a 1/2 inch fold for stiffness on the rear and bottom edges. The elongated hole on the sides is for the bolt of the front bumper over rider brace to pass through. The smaller hole is for the wiring loom of the flasher lights to pass through. As previously mentioned, the duct should be painted or water proofed. Installation is by folding the sides over each other and sliding it in through the grille opening back to the radiator and then opening the sides. The only attachment is where the over rider bracket goes through it. The duct causes most of the air entering the grille to pass through the radiator.

As pointed out earlier, the stock fan does not move much air at low RPM. It is my opinion most cooling is accomplished by ram air (air flow as a result the cars speed) through the radiator.

Andy and Geo talked about removing the sediments in the rear of the engine near the drain cock. I have found that removing it can greatly improve engine cooling. Andy's method works well. Forcing clean water through the block with a hose will assist the sediment flow.
 
Nick - My father was born in Glasgow. He taught me the value of a penny. But when you have a passion - like for your TR3A - why not spend the penny and buy one. They always say the Scots are worse than the ... when it come to spending a penny.

Did you hear about the archeologists digging at Edinburgh Castle. They found 3 skulls, then they dug a bit deeper and found the full skeletons of the three down on their hands and knees. Then they dug a bit deeper and the archeologists found a penny.

Spend a quid or 2 and buy an air deflector.

From a fellow Scot.
 
I installed an electric fan in front of the radiator, and my cooling problems went away. However... there is a seepage from the radiator, and I have decided to pull it and recore without the crank hole. While I have the apron off and the radiator out, I'll do whatever I can in there.
I want to install the electric fan behind the radiator, and eliminate the mechanical fan.
Does the long bolt hold everything on to the crank? Pulley, extension and fan?
If so, do I just replace it with a high grade short bolt to keep the pulley on?
 
fogdot said:
However... there is a seepage from the radiator, and I have decided to pull it and recore without the crank hole.
Click to expand...
While you are at it, consider having the radiator shop reinforce the extension and perhaps replace the filler neck with a modern "short reach" neck.
fogdot said:
I want to install the electric fan behind the radiator, and eliminate the mechanical fan.
Does the long bolt hold everything on to the crank? Pulley, extension and fan?
Click to expand...
Yes, that's right.
fogdot said:
If so, do I just replace it with a high grade short bolt to keep the pulley on?
Click to expand...
That (and a big, thick flat washer) worked for me on one TR3A engine. But on another engine, the nose of the crank stuck out far enough that the washer didn't fully clamp down on the pulley hub. The hub worked back and forth on the key, eventually wearing out both the crank nose and the hub. I made up a "stepped" washer (from a cast iron pipe cap) to solve the problem, plus used Loctite "circular parts mount" to fill the gap between the crank nose & hub.
Also had to modify the bolts that hold the pulley halves to the hub, as the face of the hub has a flange where the extension mates.
Result worked great for many years, although I had to use a puller to get the hub off to change the timing seal.
 
Harry_Ward said:
The duct only improves air flow when you are moving.
Click to expand...
I disagree. The duct in front of the radiator also helps keep the hot air moved by the fan from recirculating around the sides of the radiator. Not a large effect, but definitely there, IMO.

There are lots and lots of reasons these cars overheat; and no single "magic bullet" to solve the problem. In addition to all the things already mentioned, I'll add :

1) The factory widened the slots in the 3A grille after the start of 3A production, to improve airflow. Reproduction grilles seem to have the original narrow slots. Details & photos at
https://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_grill.html

2) The original radiator design does not ensure good thermal contact between the tubes & fins. Even though it doesn't leak and isn't corroded, an original radiator can have lousy thermal efficiency. Recoring (or replacement) is the only solution.

This proved to be my last cooling bugaboo. Before it got wrecked, my TR3A would stay cool in 115F heat longer than I could stand to sit behind the wheel !
 
Don Elliott said:
Randall - Will you sell me that old radiator ?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I can't, as I had it recored with a modern Modine core (and no crank hole).

But if you just need an original radiator, I've got another one I'd part with.
 
TR3driver said:
...my TR3A would stay cool in 115F heat longer than I could stand to sit behind the wheel !
Click to expand...

Which reminds me of stopping at a light next to one of those 'time & temperature' signs. Sign said a quarter after one, I thought it seemed later than that. Then the sign switched to 2:30.

Like Randall said, no magic bullet... just a whole lot of little things that contribute to better cooling.
 
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