Cooling Issues ????

[George Zeck]

I'm having some issues with my car cooling (or lack of). In short: Car has sat for 18 yrs unused. Have done many things to bring it "back to par" including: Thermostat / Thermostat housing (corosion caused it to leak), Flushed (forward & reverse) the radiator (what goes in appears to be coming out -- no blockage), flush engine block. Radiator fan works - although belt appears to be tight (it's a guess -- it does NOT make a squealling noise).

My gut tells me it's anti-freeze that has gelled inside of the block and preventing proper coolant flow. During by radiator / block flush -- I noticed "grainules" of green anti-freeze coming out. I must have not gotten all out because it stil heats up to boiling (212 degrees) in < 3 miles. Currently running 99% water & 1% coolant cleaner. Not sure if it's doing much (per directions).

I thought of a "radiator cleaner" -- but being that I can only go 3 miles at a time and they recommend driving the car for 3 - 6 hours (150 - 300 miles ??) -- not sure on what to do or how to approach the problem ???

I'm stumped on this one -- any help would be greatly appreciated.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif

 

[Biff]

George,
I would try the flush, what do you have to lose. Rather than drive the car on the road, just stay in your driveway and fast idle/rev it till it wants to overheat. Let it cool down and keep repeating the cycle. I'll bet you will be surprised at how much gunk that will come out after using a good flushing compound. Flushing with just water will only get some surface stuff loose. My car would start to overheat in traffic on hot days (90+ degrees) and when crusing on the interstate at 70+/- mph. After flushing it now dosen't get any hotter than 190 degrees.

 

[spritenut]

George

You might want to check the temp gauge for accuracy.
Stick the probe in a pot of boiling water, it should read 212 no more.
If you timing is too far advanced, this will run up the temp too.
212 is OK for a short while, 230 is shut it down temp, and when the needle hits the 80 on the oil pressure gauge, then you have problems.

 

[ThomP]

If the items above don't solve the problem, check the impeller on the water pump. It might have disolved in the past 18 years.

Can you see through the radiator slats? I had a radiator with fins so thin they folded over and wouldn't let air flow through them.

The 212 in 3 miles makes me agreee with Spritenut's recommendation to check the temp gauge. 212 in 3 miles is as if you had no water at all. Does it really boil over?

 

[aeronca65t]

Good comments above...I would wonder about your gauge too:

Also, be sure that you do not have too much pure anti-freeze in the mix (if you don't have enough water in the mix, the car will overheat).
Observe lower hose and be sure that it is not "sucking closed" (the lower hose is under suction from the water pump...some aftermarket "universal" hoses will collapse under suction).
Fan belt tight?
Themostat is not installed backwards? And you may have a bad, new themostat (I've seen this). One of the first things I do if a car overheats is to remove the themostat and run without it...it won't hurt anything to leave out the thermostat.
When I want to warm-up my car and simulate a "drive" on the road, I set the idle speed at about 1500 RPM and put two large household electric box-fans in front of the car (to prevent overheating). My car can sit running all day in the driveway with this arrangement.

 

[Mike H]

When the car is hot, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses. This will tell if you have coolant flow through the radiator.

Also, when hot, does the engine really seem hot? You should have all the smells and sounds of an overheated engine if it really is overheating as opposed to a faulty gauge reading.

 

[Super 7]

I would take the radiator to a shop and have it rodded out. This cured my Alfa when it started getting hot while crossing the Sieras up 395, and was pretty cheap, at $100.00 with the shop in Reno pulling it. Hot in 3 miles though, that is quick. Maybe "head gasket" quick.

 

[screenprinter]

All of the above is great advice and I'll add a little something to Super 7's entry - When the guage registers hot you can sorta determine head gasket maladies by seeing if the temp rises and drops repeatedly ( gets real hot, the cools for a bit then get's hot again)
My GT6 did that one time and an old pro said Head Gasket OR check/ Retorque the head bolts to spec. - Turned out to need retorqueing

The radiator suggestion is a good one too - except I'd have it recored with more efficient ( as in more cooling tubes) modern core - My Sprite radiator was $180.00 to have it done and as other members in other threads have pointed out, you get better results than if you buy a new import, repro radiator - I thinks the chinese who make em' are still a bit mad at Jolly Old England for ruling Hong Kong for awhile and maybe are looking to throw a wrench in the Foreign Devils' gears!

 

[Steve]

[ QUOTE ]
I think the chinese who make em' are still a bit mad at Jolly Old England for ruling Hong Kong for awhile and maybe are looking to throw a wrench in the Foreign Devils' gears!

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif This man is a genius! Uncovered an evil plot by the Chinese to take over world trade......quite coincidentally, check out this thread......

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...79138#Post79149

Hmmmmm, all part of a sinister plan? You be the judge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[screenprinter]

Thanks for the kind words - my cynicism is fueled by the fact China is taking a lot of the textile and furniture manufacturing business from my state -

For anyone whose interested in reading a couple of great tales which will also give you an in-depth insight into how the chinese feel about the british in particular and any other non-chinese ( One of their favorite descriptive terms is " Dung-stained Foreign Devil")you should pick up a copy of James Clavell's "TaiPan" and follow it up with his blockbuster "Noble House" - Now that guy was a genius -

As for the chinese themselves - I don't have a problem with any race, color, ethnic group - I just feel that anybody who is not intimately involved with or obsessed with LBC's won't neccessarily do a good job of manufacturing parts for them - Mores the pity - Our abiding passion and the support thereof reduced to a daily job by somebody who is only in it for the paycheck.

 

[racingenglishcars]

I think your problem is definately the head gasket. But that's just because I haven't seen it in person. Check also ignition timing and fuel mixture. both can cause inefficient burning and overheating.

But please, first check for proper coolant flow, both through the engine, and through the radiator. Make sure it is not bypassing the engine through the little waterpump bleeder tube or heater system because the engine is stopped-up.

 

[George Zeck]

I think I've solved the problem. Ended up taking to a machanic after I tweaked my back (luckily it was minor). Informed me that the hoses to / from the water pump had some type of blockage (remember -- the car sat for 18 yrs // it probably was remnants of the thermo housing mentioned in prior posts).

While things are apart: having the radiator re-cored with newer / better material and a new "racing" water pump (larger impeller & cast iron and the "right" to pay more) & of course, new hoses around.

Should have back in time for the 3 day weekend. I'd sure like to drive my car more than 3 miles for once.

To tow-free driving this weekend .....

George

 

[Super 7]

Super