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Coolant in oil likely causes?

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K

KSROADSTER

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Is there any particular place on the TR6 motor that is known to let coolant migrate to the oil..... assuming nothing is cracked. My head gasket is fresh, and I looked at the filler cap when I bought the car and it was clean. Now after setting in my heated shop for a few months and being started from time to time I have white goop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif Small block Chevys will seep at the head bolts if they aren't sealed well during installation but A treatment of Barsleak will usually take care of it. Any thoughts? Thanks Bob
 
If it's just goop in the filler cap, it's probably only condensation, and nothing to worry about. You say you start it from time to time, but how long do you run it?
Jeff
 
Describe your Positive Crankcase Ventilation system or lack thereof. That can explain condensation in the engine. What year is your car and how close to stock is the intake system?
 
Hello, I plugged off all vacuum ports to get it running right and was going to start trouble shooting them as I put them back on one at a time. Right now the valve cover vent is open to the atmosphere and has been for a month or so. Is that enough to do it? Stock intake, and carbs with VB oval foam filters. I have only had it up to temp a couple of times but I had it up on Sun. and again tonight for a while. 68 and sunny /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif Thanks for the reply!
 
If you only run the engine for short periods of time, you will build sludge. If you crank the car, you should run it long enough to get the oil hot enough to boil off any condensation that may be in the engine. (I think it is better not to crank it at all if you are not able to run it long enough to warm the oil up. I'm talking about an hour or so) Hopefully, your problem is simply condensation that has not boiled off.

Do you have to add any water/antifreeze to the radiator to keep it topped off?
 
I have been starting it just long enough to do system checks for the most part, and a few short drives. It is only just now road worthy. I have had it out for longer drives for the last three days and it seems to be getting better. The motor was rebuilt by the P.O. and I have no idea if he used sealer on any bolts that enter the water jacket. I did add a small jar of Barsleak too.
 
I can pretty much tell you that you need vacum to run the pcv properly. My TR 250's PO had the PCV(Gulp valve) disconected & the manifold ran to the back of the air cleaner housing. After heating up I would get tons of oil leaking down around the valve cover & near the head.

I checked the gaskets & they looked ok. Put the gulp valve back on & the world is happy again; no leaks in a month.

& do head the advise, try not to start the car unless you can warm it up nice & hot. The acid build up is nasty on you internals..
 
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