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Converting from Stromberg to Weber Carbs?

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Too funny...I was reading the thread all the way through, and I was just about to write: "Check your distributor and timing" when TR4 said he found the problem in his distributor.

It's so funny how a rebuilt set of carbs often prove that we have a small distributor issue!
 
Hi Alec,

Overall, I agree with you. There is nothing wrong with the SUs at all, they are also a good carb. Side draft Webers are more of a performance carb and will cost quite a bit to install properly. To be honest, back when I installed the Webers on my car, I knew virtually nothing about SUs and not a great deal about Webers. In those pre-Internet days, in Colorado, parts and information for either were pretty hard to come by. It took my local supplier a full year just to find a manifold to fit the Webers and get it shipped in from Australia!

Now, I'd be tempted to work with the SUs (still have em, just in case) or maybe swap to H8 or HS8s, just to see what those would do for the car. My car already had some engine modifications done when I bought it, with somewhat of a racing history, and Porsche orange paint 8-( The Weber install, once I got all the parts, was pretty straightforward because nearly all the recommended mods had already been done.

With Weber DCOE you should not use a vacuum advance distributor. The TR dizzy is both vacuum *and* mechanical. One method to keep the original is to eliminate the vacuum, bolt the plates together and set up a mechanical only curve. Another method is to swap out for a mechanical-only dizzy, like the Mallory dual point model. By the way, I did run my car with with Webers and a vacuum advance dizzy for awhile with no major ill effects. It runs better without vacuum advance, though.

Cheers!

Alan
 
Hello Alan,
yes, the vacuum device is designed to allow the car to be set up weaker, so as to aid fuel economy. So if you do a lot of cruising there is some point, but driving a sports car enthusiastically, it becomes redundant.

Alec
 
It seems to me it's a toss up, why didn''t we vote. I go for SU's and Stromberg's. When the rest of the engine is right it takes 20 or so minutes to tune the carbs. Always loved the Strombergs on the 4A's as they could be tuned to work on a not so perfect engine, (got a set and thinking about putting them on the TR6). I have put SU HS6's on a couple of 6's, but a pain to get the float chamers right, but they ran fine. I don't remember which needle I used, been a looooonnnggg time, (30 years). Anybody know which needle to use in the old Stromberg off a 4 to go on the 6??? My guess is to use the ones on the car now and do a little work to get them to fit. There were some shops around that did what we called blueprinting the distributor, is this not done anymore?? Wayne
 
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