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Hi folks. General question about the level of difficulty in converting a 3000 back to the standard/correct engine after it has been through a V8 conversion. I know it is impossible to give an exact answer since the level of hacking to get the new incorrect V8 in varies, but any general guidance?
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Converting a 3000 back from a V8 conversion
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Dave Richards
Jedi Knight
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Down to the chassis and off to a guy like this:
https://www.sportscarconcepts.com/ Someone who knows how to make a Healey happy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
Who knows what’s been done to the poor car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
https://www.sportscarconcepts.com/ Someone who knows how to make a Healey happy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
Who knows what’s been done to the poor car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
ronzet
Jedi Knight
Offline
I guess that if I were to undertake this project without shopping in out ($$$) I would approach the project as if the car were a rust bucket. Removing all of the components and, with pictures of incomplete and completed AH, fix and/or replace all of the non-healey parts (electrical and otherwise) as if I had purchased it without drivetrain or electrical system. If the chassis has been hacked then the job will be a bigger job. The cross member and motor mounts would be my biggest concern... This is a huge undertaking but do-able... good luck.. Ron
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[ QUOTE ]
Hi folks. General question about the level of difficulty in converting a 3000 back to the standard/correct engine after it has been through a V8 conversion. I know it is impossible to give an exact answer since the level of hacking to get the new incorrect V8 in varies, but any general guidance?
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Tom,
It's nearly impossible to be specific. The conversion could range from minimal to extensive changes. You can see & read about some of the conversions here: https://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/
I personally put a small block Chevy in a BN2 in 1959. I retained the original 4 speed Healey OD transmission, driveshaft, & rear axle. The engine to transmission adapter was a real "work of art". The rear portion of the BN2 bell housing was mated to a Chevy to Packard adapter plate.
Bolt in front engine mounts were made. The originals would be a direct replacement. Rear mounts & hardware all remained as stock. A thicker radiator core with relocated inlet & outlet was used, along with an oil cooler. Very complex headers were made to clear all of the existing Healey & Chevy parts.
The most extensive modifications were to the foot wells to widen the engine space. The sheetmetal modifications could be restored with little more trouble than often encountered with the common rusted metal renewal found on many of the cars. Mine was the most "minimally invasive" approach.
The difficulties encountered in "going back" could range from relatively simple in this case to major rebuilding. Folks converting to V8 tend to modify everything else on the car as they go along. There seems to be an urge to extensively modify everything possible. If the car in question has had complete drive train, suspension, & body modifications, the back conversion would likely not be worth the trouble & expense.
D
Hi folks. General question about the level of difficulty in converting a 3000 back to the standard/correct engine after it has been through a V8 conversion. I know it is impossible to give an exact answer since the level of hacking to get the new incorrect V8 in varies, but any general guidance?
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Tom,
It's nearly impossible to be specific. The conversion could range from minimal to extensive changes. You can see & read about some of the conversions here: https://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/
I personally put a small block Chevy in a BN2 in 1959. I retained the original 4 speed Healey OD transmission, driveshaft, & rear axle. The engine to transmission adapter was a real "work of art". The rear portion of the BN2 bell housing was mated to a Chevy to Packard adapter plate.
Bolt in front engine mounts were made. The originals would be a direct replacement. Rear mounts & hardware all remained as stock. A thicker radiator core with relocated inlet & outlet was used, along with an oil cooler. Very complex headers were made to clear all of the existing Healey & Chevy parts.
The most extensive modifications were to the foot wells to widen the engine space. The sheetmetal modifications could be restored with little more trouble than often encountered with the common rusted metal renewal found on many of the cars. Mine was the most "minimally invasive" approach.
The difficulties encountered in "going back" could range from relatively simple in this case to major rebuilding. Folks converting to V8 tend to modify everything else on the car as they go along. There seems to be an urge to extensively modify everything possible. If the car in question has had complete drive train, suspension, & body modifications, the back conversion would likely not be worth the trouble & expense.
D
healeyneil
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Um.... why bother? if you want a "standard " model - go get one. Are there not plenty in your part of the world? If you want concours or similar, then surely its a heck of a lot more work to return it from something chopped about.
Then again I dont see a great benefit in being "standard" but thats just me
Then again I dont see a great benefit in being "standard" but thats just me
BlueRidge1
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Skip, I converted my car back to origininal 6 from a v8 and it wasn't so difficult. I did however have the original footwells that were cut out which was a big help. I welded them back in place and put new Motor mounts in place. I also did the skuttle shake upgrade with the 1/2" angel steel
just to tighten it up a bit. It is best to have the chassis on a rotissierie to do the foot well work. I would say It took about 4 days of fiting welding and grinding but it was worth the effort. Probably would have been alot more difficult if I didn't have the original wells but it still could be done without them if you had a doner car or new parts and maybe another car to measure. I don't think they ever actually completed the conversion and they didn't hack up anything else on the car other than the wells and the motor mounts. Guess he lost intrest (thank goodness)
Good Luck with your project If you take it on. Bob
just to tighten it up a bit. It is best to have the chassis on a rotissierie to do the foot well work. I would say It took about 4 days of fiting welding and grinding but it was worth the effort. Probably would have been alot more difficult if I didn't have the original wells but it still could be done without them if you had a doner car or new parts and maybe another car to measure. I don't think they ever actually completed the conversion and they didn't hack up anything else on the car other than the wells and the motor mounts. Guess he lost intrest (thank goodness)
Good Luck with your project If you take it on. Bob