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Conversion to alternator

Jack T

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Figured I was going to convert to negative ground / alternator eventually on my BT7. The latest Moss sale has the kit with a 45 amp alternator at $272. Doesn't sound too bad since it includes bracket and all hardware. I'm old enough to appreciate buying something that fits and is pretty much plug and play. Anyone used their kit? Is there a better alternative?

Thanks.

Jack
 
Options - not in any particular order:
--Moss kit per above - Lucas alternator - not sure if they have a good quality record or not.
--Hendrix wire wheel mounting kit with either:
-----GM alternator -or-
-----Denso alternator
--Dynamator alternator - looks just like stock Lucas generator, uses stock mount, pulley and fan - there have been some QC issues with these, so you'd want to have it checked by an auto electric shop before installing. See previous posts on these.

I like the Hendrix mounting kit with 35 amp Denso alternator - it's not as huge in your engine compartment as the Chevy alternator. These are widely used on forklifts and farm equipment and with careful online shopping can be had for $65 or so.

PS - if you have the opportunity to buy a 1-wire hotrod alternator, DON'T DO IT. It won't run your no-charge lamp. There's lots of discussion online about the pros and cons of 1-wire alts.

See my paper on the Denso conversion:
https://www.healey6.com/Technical/Alternator1.pdf
 
I previously read where the Dynamator can have a problem with heat as it seems to have inadequate cooling for the alternator electrics in the generator case. I can now confirm this as I had one on my BN7 and drove it in the recent CA heat wave with the halogen lights on during the day (safety on 2 lane highways). The Dynamator failed part way through the trip. I'm switching to the Hendrix version mount and the GM alternator as I plan on doing a lot of driving and you can get this GM alternator anywhere if there is a problem. It doesn't look as good as the Dynamator but I can live with the looks for the increased reliability and availability.
 
Options - not in any particular order:
--Moss kit per above - Lucas alternator - not sure if they have a good quality record or not.
--Hendrix wire wheel mounting kit with either:
-----GM alternator -or-
-----Denso alternator
--Dynamator alternator - looks just like stock Lucas generator, uses stock mount, pulley and fan - there have been some QC issues with these, so you'd want to have it checked by an auto electric shop before installing. See previous posts on these.

I like the Hendrix mounting kit with 35 amp Denso alternator - it's not as huge in your engine compartment as the Chevy alternator. These are widely used on forklifts and farm equipment and with careful online shopping can be had for $65 or so.

PS - if you have the opportunity to buy a 1-wire hotrod alternator, DON'T DO IT. It won't run your no-charge lamp. There's lots of discussion online about the pros and cons of 1-wire alts.

See my paper on the Denso conversion:
https://www.healey6.com/Technical/Alternator1.pdf
I believe my alternator is one wife, not the hot rod type, and my no charge lightbworks correctly. I think it is for '80's something Pontiac.
 
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Converted to a Dynamator a few months ago and the cost was approximately $200 with somewhat favorable Canadian exchange rate. Output is monitored with an onboard voltmeter. 14.5 above 1500 RPM is typical. I have only a few hundred miles on mine but club members who have these installed are reporting good results while running in hot SoCal climate.

TR3a356 - interested in how the unit failed - did it just stop charging?

My backup is to return to the original generator or perhaps a "true' alternator conversion such as a mini Denso. GONZO
 
I believe my alternator is one wife, not the hot rod type, and my no charge lightbworks correctly. I think it is for '80's something Pontiac.

Rick - Can you show a picture of the wire(s) coming out of the alternator? I've read many places a separate wire is necessary to run the charge light.

If that's not true, would like to correct my understanding.
 
Gonzo,

Dynamator failed with no output and charging/ignition light would no longer come on when key was switched on. You might be OK in Canada since it's generally cooler. I was running the halogen headlights in 105-110F temps and it just couldnt take it.
 
My comments regard the conversion itself and are not necessarily Healey specific.

I like the guys at Hendrix and I like Denso alternators. If originality is not your concern, go for an affordable, reliable Denso alternator with the necessary brackets. There is so little to the wiring that the offering of a conversion harness should not weigh heavily in your decision.
 
I checked my alternator and it's a three wire plug with two wires being used.
At Conclave, We had a guy with a 100 with neg ground conversion show up with alternator not working. It was a Lucas alternator and where in the heck do you get one? O'Reillys Auto Parts had one for him the next day and even warranted the bad one. Also, his generator light wasn't working, the bulb was burned out, and this is very important that it works so the alternator will work.
 
Here is a pic of a 3 wire alternator that allows the use of the charge indicator light and uses an GM AC Delco, 1993 or 94 era alternator. The bracketry is from Hendrix. The other pic is the wiring schematic to hook up the alternator using the yellow/green wire at your generator to make the charge light work. My drawing accidentally labeled the yellow/green as yellow/brown. In the pic of the alternator you can just barely make out that the yellow/green wire is attached to the inboard side of the two wire plug (which is a white wire on the plug) on the top of the alternator. In my opinion this is a far superior arrangement because it utilizes a common GM alternator that is available anywhere on the planet.
 

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Addendum to this older thread -

With two of these (Moss) and a length of 5/16" all-thread and some nuts, one can convert to a Denso or GM alternator:

screenshot.2594.jpg

This has a slight offset which can be flattened out, as well as drilling the lower hole out to 7/16".

#851-031 stainless version for $24 each.

screenshot.2595.jpg
40 amps - approx $61.
 
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