TR2/3/3A Control Head Rebuild Help

[CI_TR3]

The indicator stalk fell out of my control head ('59 TR3) so I decided to dive into the mythical world of the control head and took it apart this weekend. Everything was working prior to dis-assembly, it was simply the screw that secures the lever that came out. Everything came apart well and I just had a few questions before putting everything back together.

1. The grub screws that hold the head onto the steering wheel were all stripped. Moss offers new screws. Are those the best for replacement or is there a better option?

2. I assume I can re-use the nut that holds the stator tube onto the steering box but assume I should replace the compression sleeve (is this the olive?). Is that right?

3. I thought I might as well replace the steering box fluid while I have some of the oil drained out. Is the Penrite oil that Moss sells my best bet for this?

4. As I mentioned above, everything worked fine, but the wires are in pretty rough shape and of course most of the sheathing from the wires is gone. Should I order a new wire set from Moss and pull it through the stator tube or just leave the wires that are currently there.

Anything else I am missing or not thinking about while I have this whole thing apart? Thanks for the help.

 

[TR3driver]

1. Probably best. If you replace them with ordinary hex socket setscrews, someone will have a terrible time getting them out in the future.

2. AFAIK no one sells a correct replacement compression sleeve (aka olive). The modern ones sold by Moss et all don't fit the same. I would reuse the original if at all possible. The originals were split to make them easier to remove.

3. Depends on how badly your box leaks. IMO a good synthetic GL5 will give you easier steering (I use Valvoline Synpower gear oil). The Penrite stuff's main advantage is that it is almost grease and less likely to leak.

4. Your call, but if those wires short out, the results tend to be unpleasant. Especially the scenario where the horns start blowing and won't stop until you pull over, raise the hood, and pull the fuse.

It's a slippery slope, but if your steering box leaks bad enough to need the Penrite, I would seriously consider pulling it for a new seal and bushing. It made a world of difference in my former TR3A, leaving me wondering why I hadn't done it years earlier! I now believe that wear in that bushing (which is also what causes the seal to leak) is the main cause of hard steering. The wear lets the rocker shaft tip fore/aft when steering force is applied, which in turns causes the pin to bind in the worm (as well as contribute to slop in the steering).

If you have the split column, it is possible to remove the steering box without pulling the front apron. Although in retrospect, it would probably be easier to just pull the apron ...