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Contemplating restoration of '76 XJ6C

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K

klass6

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For reasons too ridiculous to mention, I am thinking about redoing the skin, rubber and leather of this bright red beauty ( Series 11, UG2J52210) which I have owned since 1980. BUT, there are two running problems that keep popping up which raise my doubts.
1) the Stromberg-Zenith 175CD-2 Carbs which flood only when restarting up when the engine is hot. ( Typically, I go out for a cup of coffee, park for ten minutes ( minimum) and low and behold...flooded! Several experienced British mechanics have struggled with me on this with no real solution....
2) I have previously posted a description of "sudden death syndrome" ( these threads have been lost unfortunately), but it seems there is a coil-condensor-distributor problem that occasionally simply causes a loss of electrical current to the engine. I have frequently been stranded in embarrassing places ( middle of a bridge in rush hour for example!) with this problem, which seems to be entirely random.
Perhaps some genius in the crowd has gone through these issues and can help.
So far the only solution worth noting is simply replacing the engine with a Chevy block. But then I wouldn't have a Jaguar!

Thanks
 
I ain't no genius but i would have the carb"professionally" rebuilt and replace the dizzy guts with a modern electronic type
such as Pertronics to keep things simple.--Fwiw-Keoke
 
Replace the carbs with a manual choke set from a series 1 XJ6. Be sure to get cables, the choke lever as well as the carbs. Rebuild the carbs, mount the lever under the dash, and away you go. I HATE the water choke carbs. Just about impossible to get 2 water chokes to work the same way at the same time... Then get a series 3 distributor, and the ignition amp, and convert to the later ignition. (There once was a factory kit for doing this....) or use an earlier point ignition distributor, and adjust wiring to suit.I seem to recall that there is an "ignition protection" relay under the dash, but that may be XJ12 only. If you have one, be sure it works. Also, check the inertia switch. They can fail, and will also turn off the car.
 
Two common problems with those cars are ignition amps and a starter relay that is near the center of the firewall. When inertia switches get tripped they stay tripped until you reset them. They are never intermittant.


jessebogan said:
Replace the carbs with a manual choke set from a series 1 XJ6. Be sure to get cables, the choke lever as well as the carbs. Rebuild the carbs, mount the lever under the dash, and away you go. I HATE the water choke carbs. Just about impossible to get 2 water chokes to work the same way at the same time... Then get a series 3 distributor, and the ignition amp, and convert to the later ignition. (There once was a factory kit for doing this....) or use an earlier point ignition distributor, and adjust wiring to suit.I seem to recall that there is an "ignition protection" relay under the dash, but that may be XJ12 only. If you have one, be sure it works. Also, check the inertia switch. They can fail, and will also turn off the car.
Click to expand...
 
Two common problems with those cars are ignition amps and a starter relay


Yep I had to replace that relay on my 85 XJ6 with a Bosh unit.
 
Sure sounds like you've diagnosed the issues, and posted them previously. But, if said posts are gone, please do elaborate on your diagnostic methods.

With no further information, I'd be checking for spark on both issues first.

Old coils short out when they get hot. Under hood temps get hot soon after shut down, say.. 10 min or less. And they get hot when driving.

With no other info (I'm not a regular here, so have not seen your previous posts), I'd lean towards coil on both issues you briefly described.

If that's something you've already addressed... well then...

Sorry I can't help further.

Don't put a chevy engine in there.. the best thing about these cars is the engine. Drives me nuts to see 'em lumped.

~Matt
 
My Series I had the same problem. Coil was bad as was the next one and the next. Finally relocated to a place of less heat. Perhaps it was already moved on the Series II.
 
Just wanted to thank you all for your thoughtful suggestions.
I recently spoke to a seasoned Jag specialist ( local ) who believes that the electrical problem ( coil) is the source of all the problems. Winter approaches, and the car goes into hibernation soon so it will be a while till I get a chance to try out his solution (spring time) but I will tune back in to let you know how things progress.
 
That's a shame. When it's cold out, you could drive it and see....if it fires right up when -276C, you'd know!
 
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