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Spitfire Compression Test - Spit 1500

DNK said:

Ok then, what weight should I change to?

I have straight 30 weight in Tranny, OD, and the Dif...
 
Pete, believe me when I say among the folks on this forum I am FAR from the wizard.
I don't know about Spits,but most of the 6's use 20/50

I might be talkin out of my blow hole on this...
 
I called Amsoil, I got this info back;

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SJ
Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil
SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
SAE 10W-40 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
-4 to 61°F......10W-30
Above 32°F......20W-40, 20W-50
Above 14°F......15W-40, 15W-50
Above -4°F......10W-40, 10W-50
Below 14°F......5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40
Manual Transmission,.....GL-4
Below 0°C......80W
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
Manual Transmission,.....GL-4
90
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
Differential, Rear .....GL-4
Below 0°C......80W
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
Differential, Rear .....GL-4
All Temps......90
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
Fluids
Brake Fluid.....HB
Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid.....HB
Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid


CAPACITIES
Engine, without filter..........4.2 quarts[1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........4.8 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

Manual Transmission, W/O OD..........1.7 pints
Manual Transmission, W/ OD..........3.2 pints
Differential, Rear..........1.3 pints</span></span>

So I guess I should do a full fluid change as well. This still dont convince me that 5w30 is too light, as its listed in the Cold Temps, but Since I only drive on nice hot days I'll still change it, tranny too it seems.
 
I lived in MD. You should be using a Humid weather oil.
 
Pete, we can debate optimum oil viscosity and formulation until we are old and gray (as proven by the on-going debate over just one motor oil component, ZDDP). But the plain truth is that, if it did make a difference, a compression reading that low indicates that the damage has already been done. You have a big, gaping hole (in terms of normal cylinder/ring clearance) somewhere. Switching to a heavier oil at this point may make the reading a bit higher, but won't eliminate the damage or make the engine run any better.

Same goes for carbon/deposit buildup in the cylinder. Adding water ain't a gonna help with the compression.

Don't have any photos to share, but my 59 TR3A was in a similar condition when I bought it. The rings in one cylinder (think it was #3 but that was a long time ago) had rusted to the cylinder wall and left big pits in it. Apparently when someone got the engine running, both compression rings caught on the rust pits and broke ... they came out in pieces. I had already driven the car several months before I found time to investigate why it had so much blow-by ... lacking resources to deal with the problem, I just stuffed a new set of rings in and buttoned it back up, complete with extreme cylinder wall wear and rust pits. Drove it that way almost every day for about 5 years, too.

Eventually another engine came my way and I put that in; never did look to see how those rings fared. But the new rings did help reduce the blow-by and it didn't use an unreasonable amount of oil.
 
I think by using an oil lighter than 20w-50 you can usually expect 2 things.
You'll use more oil and your oil pressure will be lower; that is unless you are driving around in the Great White North.
 
If you are wondering why the Amsoil folks recommend European oil... ZDDP. which is found in the European oil. Good ole' US EPA got the American oil formulators to change their additive package reducing, or deleting ZDDP(which is a very inexpensive(on the scale the oil refiners use it) antiwear additive. It also can contaminate catalytic convertors...

European oil manufactures adhere to their auto manufacturers request and kept ZDDP oil in their oil..


But, it is not that easy to come by over here in the US of A.
 
I don't think a higher viscosity oil is going to do anything to address the problems you have, but I know for sure that if I ran a 5w30 synthetic in any of my British cars, most of it would be lining the engine bay and/or puddled on the floor in short order... :smile:
 
Wait a second - wasn't this thread about compression figures? As stated above oil viscosity isn't going to change your compression ratio. Oil pressure for sure, but not compression.
 
When has this group ever known to stay on task?
 
tdskip said:
Oh look, a squirrel!

Cool, unless hes dragging up the old ZDDP discussion too. lol
 
pjsmetana said:
So this Water Trick...

I did this as Doc described. ~3k RPM with a spray bottle. 'Bout 2 cups of water per barrel, then pumped the accelerator to see if it would smoke at all. Around the time I finished the 2nd barrel the smoke started going away when pumping. I then put my filter back on, hopped into the drivers seat, and floored it all the way to the auto parts store.

poolboy said:
Chemtool B-12 is a good detergent as is Techron...

I got a quart of cheep-o 30wt oil and a bottle of the Techron, as I didnt see any Chemtool B-12 anything. I put half the Techron bottle in the tank and then ran her hard around town for about 20 mins. By the time I got home I felt like the engine was running a bit smoother. When I pulled into my garage I noticed I was barely leaking any oil at all.

I'll probably run the compression test again tomorrow.

pjsmetana said:
TR3driver said:
So the question you have to ask yourself is "Do I feel lucky?".

Indeed I do!

I feel like tomorrows drive will include stopping to get a lotto ticket!!! We'll see...
 
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