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competition release bearing

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gents, im fixin to yank the trans for a rebuild new syncs, seals, bearings etc, may as well do the clutch right? ive recently heard not so good things about the "comp release bearing" as per d.w. type, anyone out there have any experiance with this unit? thanks, anthony7777,1963 bj7 m.k.II /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
No experience with the "improved" bearing. I assume you are referring to the ball bearing type. Considering that the stock bearing lasts a good long while, if not abused, I can see little reason to try something "new" which may have it's own problems. Maybe someone who has one can tell you how much better it is.

Keep in mind that competition cars are very frequently overhauled & replacing a bearing would be no big thing. I think DW is implying that with very heavily sprung pressure plates, the carbon bearing just doesn't last very long. Thus the "improved" model. However, ball type release bearings have their own unique set of problems.
D
 
Yep,ball type release bearings have their own set of problems,they smooth as glass.---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Most car makers discovered long ago that ball type release bearings need to be in constant contact with the clutch. They don't react well to being yanked from zero to several thousand rpm instantly. It takes some fitting & messing around to keep them adjusted for constant contact without having them bear too hard on the clutch plate. I have both types & as I said, they both have problems. Basically, on a hydraulic release cylinder, you need some way to keep residual pressure on the release bearing.
D
 
Well that being the case Dave jest ride the clutch a bit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Seriously,I guess no body told Volvo that they Have had, all of mine do to, Ballbearing throwout bearings for eons. In the Healey mine has been running for about 40 K Miles no problem at all.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Keoke, There are a lot of things that " they " didn't "tell" Volvo about proper design and choice of materials! I.M.H.O. I would use another make as an example to make a point about design choices. Perhaps the throw out bearings are fine, but they didn't know a thing about picking a quality wire in which the insulation doesn't fall off over time among other things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif
My wife had a 86 and I learned why they had a reputation for being " safe ". It is very safe to be in a car that is not able to go down the road again and again due to all kinds of electrical problems. I wouldn't own one again even if someone offered to give me one !
 
OH MY GOODNESS EDK, I do not consider anything after 1973 a Volvo so those things you are talking about didn't exist in these:-444, 544,AMAZON,122,P1800,P1800E & P1800ES-Now those are VOLVOS and the finest wire I have ever seen is used in their wire harness. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif-Keoke
 
dave russell yes the ball type bearing thanks, keoke,great,so ill roll up some "old" volvo wire and use it as a release bearing? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif the heck with it ill use the original type. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
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... ill roll up some "old" volvo wire and use it as a release bearing?

[/ QUOTE ]

Just a "clutch cable"? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
jameswillson, no silly somtin like dis!. see attch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 

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[ QUOTE ]
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... ill roll up some "old" volvo wire and use it as a release bearing?

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Just a "clutch cable"? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

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JW! He doesn't have the faintest idea what chu talking about.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
keoke, :jest ride the clutch a bit" ooh boy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif why not keep it in gear wit da mergecy brake on? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
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keoke, :jest ride the clutch a bit" ooh boy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

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OH!Anthony, when you grow up to be a tall man you will learn how to do this too.---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
keoke, my body isnt gunna get any larger in any direction unlike some people hum,hum,, and ive already installed the large wooden blocks to all the pedals so there! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif the only reason id install "improved" components would be to make healey operation easier,safer,longer lasting,etc, not to have to develope a new bag of tricks to make things work.ie. you wouldnt put in an elect. ignition if you had to keep the reves up to 3000rpm to make it work would ya? then why would ya wanna install an updated release bearing if ya have to "ride the clutch" to have it fungtion, i understand the mech theory these new type dont like going from standing still and being made to go the several thousand rpm not good for any component, now if you could tell me if you knew how to adjust the release bearing (if thats at all possible with this unit)so that it could keep some constant pressure so its not shocked by a sudden rpm increase well that would be a bit more helpful, how "smooth as glass" is somthin you have to manipulate to get it to work? i get confused enough just havin to flip the trafficator when i want to make a turn! in a way you have been helpful, im going with the original type. thank you very much. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif and in my spare time i will continue to develop my "old volvo wire" release bearing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
Many brake master cylinders have a residual pressure valve. This keeps a slight pressure on the system when the pedal is completely released, to keep the wheel cylinder or caliper pistons from completely retracting & reducing pedal travel. Something like it might work on the clutch also.

My Ford trucks have a light spring in the clutch operating cylinder that keeps "some" pressure on the release bearing at all times. The pressure needs to be just enough to keep the release bearing in contact but to not partially release the clutch.

Still not sure why it is needed. My old BN2 carbon bearing is adjusted to NOT be in contact with the clutch & has survived 80,000 some miles with no problems yet. Since the carbon bearing is thought to wear quickly, I make it a point to not ride the clutch or keep the throwout engaged for prolonged periods of time.

You only have to read some of the Triumph web sites to see the endless search for a better, improved, less troublesome release bearing set up.

K may have the answer for the Healeys. If so, follow his method to the exact detail.
D
 
Well Anthony, you really do not have to adjust them to keep them rolling,all you need to do is add a very light spring to the clutch fork you know its just hanging there anyway. But I have not even done that it operates just like the sticky one except its smooth as glass.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
keoke,alas the mighty has once again enlightened! that wasnt so hard was it? thank you. attch.
 

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