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Coming out of mothballs ...

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mainetr3

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Have had my 1956 TR-3 since 1968. Purchased from a guy who owned a tree nursery in Augusta as a non running car. Went to pick it up with a flat bed. Ready to winch it up on the trailer. Put in a new battery to run the lights for the two hour trip home. Was playing around with the overdrive switch and heard a click. Figured what the heck... pressed the starter button and it started. DROVE it onto the flatbed and tied it down. Drove the car for several years until I got into into an accident in 1974. Popped in the can at 40 mph. Clipped the body, repaint, and drive it again. In 1986, I decided to paint the engine bay. Blasted the bay to metal and painted as far down as I could. Not good enough. Pulled the engine to complete the job. Engine out ... why not rebuild it? Rebuilt engine and and head from TRF. Done! But ... I ran out of ambition and free time. Now 21 years later, piles of parts and boxes from many sources, I am ready to get her going again. I saw what this forum has done for the Tinster and I may need as much help.
 
We're ready to help any way we can. But this should be the proverbial "walk in the park" compared to Dale's [mis]adventures, considering his car was, uh, "restored" by the main character from a bad Stephen King novel. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
One question I have fron the get go ... The engine has been sitting since the rebuild in like 1986. I fogged the cylinders but have never turned it over since I put the head on. What do I do as a precaution so I do not break the rings? Also ... before I had the idea of painting the engine bay, the right front bearing seized. The wheel must of had enough enertia going for it, as it managed to go from the car and beat me to a red light. I changed the bearinf but have doubts that further damage was not done to the axel. In looking at parts drawings from the big three, all I see is bolt on whire wheel adapters. This TR has true wire wheel splines bolted to a stub axel with the tapered shim ring over the drum. What should I look for as possible damage fron the seized bearing. As you can tell, I have lots of questions about many areas of the car.

Thanks ... John
 
The wire wheel adaptor has four lug bolts (studs) and is held on with four smallish 11/16" nuts. The wheel studs are shortened to clear the wheel adaptor. This allows one to remove the wheel adaptor, install longer studs, and go back to disc wheels.

The front axle stub is replaceable if you have any damage but you'll have to remove the entire verticle link and use a good sized hydraulic press to get it off and back on.

Squirt some oil in each cylinder and try to spin it over. Unless there's some serious corrosion in there it should crank right over.

What's the TS# of your car?

BTW...Tinster's used up everyone else's "advice allowance" so you're on your own here...hahaha
 
Welcome to this TR Forum. Peter also lives in Maine and I'm only about 300 miles from Portland. I restored a "late" TR (TS 81551 L) and last year, it was finally finished. The engine had been rebuilt in 1996 and had only 400 miles on it when the owner had a serious accident with it. He didn't want me to touch the engine. It hadn't run in 11 years. I used my hand crank to try to see if it would turn. It did. I cranked it over with the starter with the plugs out to build up oil pressure. I checked the compression on the starter motor with the engine cold. All cylinders were between 20 and 40 psi. Then I put the plugs back in. It started right up. After it ran a while and got up to temperature, the compression was 155 psi on all cylinders. It runs great.

Go for it.

I restored mine in 1987 to 1990 and have driven 97,000 miles since 1990. Life is good when you're having fun.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal TS 27489 LO

https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG
Photo at VTR in 2001
 
Oohh! anotha Mainah!!! Welcome to the meelee!!! Our pal "coldplugs" is a fellow Maine native. Out Manchester way.

I'd suggest Marvel Mystery Oil as the lube to put down the plug-holes.
 
Hi There MaineTR3;

Ist; Welcome to the BCF from the Pocono Mtns of PA:

I totally agree with Dr Entropy; "Marvel Mystery Oil" / Let sit for a day or two & then try Hand Cranking her over:

She should turn over & then "Go for the Gusto"!

Best Wishes; Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
mainetr3 said:
What do I do as a precaution so I do not break the rings?
Click to expand...
IMO, you're not likely to break the rings anyway, unless things are in such bad shape inside that it won't much matter what you do.
But, I would suggest to drain & replace the oil with fresh, then as Don mentioned, dose the plug holes (again) with the penetrating oil of your choice (I like PB Blaster), and use the starter to spin it (with the plugs still out) until the oil pressure comes up.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]This TR has true wire wheel splines bolted to a stub axel with the tapered shim ring over the drum.[/QUOTE]Wow ! Those things are scarce ! Not illustrated in any catalog I know of, but apparently available from TRF under P/N 108277/108278. They were NLA for a long time, though, so most cars have been 'upgraded' with the later hubs & splined adapters.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] What should I look for as possible damage fron the seized bearing.[/QUOTE]If the hub separated from the car, odds are high that the stub axle is damaged, IMO. If there is any discoloration (from heat) or scoring from the bearing race turning against it, I'd replace it. Some damage to the threads might be OK if it's right at the end of the axle, but I wouldn't tolerate much below the hole for the cotter pin. And of course the new nut must turn freely. If it binds, the threads may be distorted. Slide the new bearing races into place and check that they fit snugly. It's OK if they need some encouragement, but you shouldn't be able to rock them on the stub axle.

I was able to remove a damaged stub axle on my TR3A without removing the vertical link, by making a suitable stack of flat washers & a length of pipe, plus a grade 8 nut (not the original castellated nut, which isn't as strong). Had to reef down on it pretty tight ... decided that I had nothing to lose if the threads stripped ... and then whack the axle with a BFH; but it finally popped out.

PS, Welcome to the BCF, and Good Luck !
 
I will offer no advice, but will enjoy the vicarious trip with your work on your TR3, just as I have been following the continuing adventures of Amos/Crypty, and the developing growth of TeeYah with rapt attention.

Welcome to the forum.
 
DrEntropy said:
Oohh! anotha Mainah!!! Welcome to the meelee!!! Our pal "coldplugs" is a fellow Maine native. Out Manchester way.
Click to expand...

OK. Who is Coldplugs. I also live in Manchester.
 
Hello MaineTR3.

I live just outside of Augusta in Manchester and also have a TR3 ... and a TR4A in restoration.

Give me a call 623-9203.

PeterK
 
Small world! In 1968 I purchased my 1956 TR-3 from Bishop's nursery in Manchester. As I begin to unpack the bits and pieces and get the engine off the shipping skid and back into the car I am sure I will be in touch.

Maine TR-3
TS11798LO
 
Bishop's is now The Pizza Stone, our favorite pizza take out place. But I remember going there with my grandparents to buy trees & shrubs. About a mile from home.
 
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