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Coil connections

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C

Cutlass

Jedi Warrior
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In an effort to mimic authenticity, I retrieved an old Lucas coil for my 66 BJ8, with the SW and CB connections for the primary, and the screw-in type connector for the secondary. (Don't worry, no resurrection of the polarity issue.) My question is about connections. The wiring harness and Pertronix primary connections are spade type. I'd like to retain those connectors, rather than snipping them off and replacing with ring terminals. Of course, the coil I found did not have spade connections. So I got some crimp-type spade connectors, opened up the crimp ends, and drilled a hole to allow for attachment to the coil. Putting two on each side allowed for attachment of all wires, except for one wire intended for the distributor, for the cut-off switch. (Now replaced by the black Pertronix wire.) This set-up works, but due to the small size of the spade connectors, I'm not convinced of their durability. Sooooo -- Any source for purpose built spade connectors to go on the coil?

As far as secondary is concerned, I got a brass cable end connector from Napa for the coil end of the wire from the distributor, and used the knurled connector. But, this really doesn't work, because the brass connector does not allow the knurled thingamagig to rotate on the wire. So I had to hold the wire still, and screw the coil on. Not practical in the long run. Also, the screw-in thing doesn't seem to hold the wire firmly. How is this supposed to work?
 
HI Cutlass, The end of the wire held in the coil by the threaded knurled knob should be fitted with a brass washer that seats in the coil and is secured with the Knurled screw in part. However, it is possible that the screw in part has broken off in the past and is too short to lock the brass washer down tight. Regarding the coils terminals you can buy at most auto stores double lucar connectors that can be screwed directly to the coil. Now with effectively "Four" terminals on the coil, you can hook up; the Pertonix connections, the cutoff switch lead and the 12Volt excitation.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Thanks, Keoke. What I still don't get is how the coil wire is connected to the brass washer. I guess I could just strip off a bit of insulation, and pass the central wire through a small brass washer, bend the wire, and maybe use a bit of solder. How does that sound? The screw in part is new.

Regarding the coil terminals, I'll keep trying. Napa doesn't carry or list them.
 
Hi cutlass

Originally the coil wire was held in a slot in that washer and fanned out on the bottom side. My advice is to solder the wire to the washer---Keoke

Regarding the terminals. Find an old coil with the double lucar screwed on terminals and liberate them for this application.- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Hi Cutlass,
If you can’t find what you’re looking for locally, I think Holden has what you need. Scroll to the bottom for info on the 2 blade connector here. The downside is they ship from far away and who really needs 50 of them. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Having learned long ago not to throw away little things that might be hard to find later, tonight I actually found a three prong lucar connector. I also found that little brass split washer for the end of the secondary coil wire. Thanks for the tip, though. But before spending about twenty bucks or more for 50 connectors, think I'll rummage through the odd parts bin of our local British auto parts supplier.
 
Cutlass,
Since you are using an " old lucas coil ", better get out your ohm meter and check for 3 ohms across the primary terminals. Any reading over 3 ohms is an indication of a bad coil. They are old and many of them have already bitten the dust. To give you something to go by, if you see 6 ohms across the primary terminals of the coil, then the maximum output voltage of the coil has been reduced roughly in half of what it was when new, ( 3 ohms ).
Ed K.
 
I did check it, and it was a bit over 3 ohms. My understanding was that too low an ohm reading was a sign of trouble. Incidently, the coil seems to work just fine. The engine fires, revs, etc. I've still got the fine tuning to do, and am still a year away from road testing, but so far, so good. Your points are well taken, though, and probably the best bet is to get a new coil and keep the old one for shows, etc.
 
Cutlass, I've got alot, alot, alot of misc. healey electrical parts, including ignition coils screws ,nuts,connectors, spare parts everywhere, let me know what I can help you with. I'm in Forsyth, not sure where you are located. will be glad to help you any way that I can.Bob
 
I'm in Sandy Springs, right down the road. Thanks for the offer. What I need is the two prong lucar connectors used on the coil. Thought I'd rummage around Atlanta Imported used parts inventory.
 
A little over three ohms is fine... You heard correct, they can also fail in such a way as showing a short, ( o ohms ). The point is that one needs to check old coils with an ohm meter and anything significantly different than 3 ohms is a sign of failure. The spark voltage always goes down when they fail either way.
 
If you fail to find the 2-position spade connector, you can always roll your own. Hobby shops sell brass sheet metal (shim stock) in thicknesses up to about 0.025" or 0.030". You can use tin snips to cut a long strip of brass a little over 1/4" wide, punch a hole in the middle, then bend up the two spades. If the hobby shops don't have what you're looking for, I've improvised connectors using small pieces of hammer flattened copper pipe trimmed and bent.

Also consider sources like Mouser Electronics. See their catalog page:
https://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1217.pdf
They have some similar connectors but the leg-to-leg spacing is a bit tight. Still... they don't have order minimums and they'll sell to anyone with a credit card.

When I used to see the old coils they were used with solid core wire. As Keoke said, the method used was to trim back the insulation and feed the conductors through the brass washer. However, I never saw those wires soldered, The technique was to gently fold the wires back in a starburst pattern after they'd passed through the washer. This allowed the "coil nut" to push the washer and arrayed wires against the contact in the coil's center post. The problem I remember was when friends would try to use their old coils with the carbon fiber core resistor wires.
 
I,did find an old Lucas coil with 2spaded prongs each side, they are held in with rivets,if you can't find anything let me know.
 
Cutlass said:
Thanks. I'll check with Atl. Imported this weekend.
Click to expand...


Well if you are not in a big hurry Cutlass you can order them from "British Wiring" up the coast a bit. They have the Dual Male Lucar connectors @ 50 cents each.

Course now if that old coil Stnky60 found isn't any good he just might drill the rivits out and drop the connectors off at your place,---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Not in a hurry, Keoke. Just getting ready to send it in for paint. Patience, patience, patience. I must keep telling myself. Thanks for the tip. I will check them out. Apparently, the Moss wiring harnesses come from them, so they should have the right stuff.

Only problem is that pesky $20.00 minimum credit card order requirement. I'll have to think up more to order.
 
Found just what I needed, thanks to the kind folks at Atlanta Imported Auto Parts, who let me rummage around in their bin of old coils. Getting there.
 
I have a question concerning the coil connections. I added the Petronix ignition and I know from an eariler post about the loss of tach function, which I had rebuilt with an electric circuit from a guy on the Sunbeam forum, but does anybody have a wiring sketch they could email or post on what shoule connect to where on the coil? I have more wires than room to connect on my BJ8.

Also, has anybody added a Volt gauge to their car, where did you get it and how to wire it as well?

Thanks in advance gang!
 
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