• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Cockpit capping

Arrow

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
I believe the capping on the doors and angle directly behind the doors was leather. I know the leather wrapped around and inside the outside of the capping (towards the exterior of the car). Does the capping wrap around and tuck up inside the metal on the interior side or does it get cut off at the metal edge? It seems that if it wraps up inside on the interior side it makes for a quite tight fit pushing it down on the door and body behind the door. Appreciate your input. Tom
 
It was leather only on some cars; and wrapped around both edges. Very thin leather...
 
And with the leather usually supplied in the interior kits - a very tight fit (as you say). I used a rubber mallet to pound it into position.

A simple jig held in a vise makes it easier to wrassle the leather into shape over the metal dog leg (the part behind the door):

dogleg2_zpskqtgnsmd.jpg


dogleg1_zpstwjhwkvy.jpg


dogleg4_zps7aed188f.jpg
 
George,
what did you have to do to the leather to get it to form around the metal?
Charley
 
For leather, you can wet it to stretch and it will take some set. I'd do this first and clamp it to let it dry then do the the final stretch with adhesive. For vinyl, use a blow dryer to soften the material as you stretch it.
 
I covered my cappings in leather. The doglegs were the only time I soaked the leather before stretching, as that concave curve is hard to get without wrinkles. Actually, that was the only section of the leather I soaked. I also used a heat gun, but on low setting. I used 3M #77 in the spray can. I sprayed it on both the leather (while still wet, but not dripping) and the dogleg piece. I put the dogleg in a jig (courtesy of the design by Geo Hahn) and stretched it all on while the glue still had some give. I had to use a little heat also. After the glue dried on the upper dogleg section, I trimmed and folded it over and glued in place with brushable contact cement. The other cappings did not require any wetting or heat.

Geo's jig is a 3/4" piece of wood with a shallow, offset "V" cut into it. I don't have a picture handy, but maybe Geo will dig his pic out.

IMG_0080C.JPG
 
I know what you mean if there is too much material the piece will not sit down all the way on the car. I have wrapped them around so the material tucked under on both sides, but like you suggested the piece fits odd. This last tr3 I took apart the material on the inside of the door capping DID NOT tuck under on the inner door side but did on the outside. I believe this correct from the factory, but not sure. The outside would have to tuck under to make a weather seal, but the inside could finish being behind the door panel and not have all the buildup of material.

I also used Geo wooden deal, but I did not soak them in water. I basically waited for hot July day and also used a heat gun. I moved very slow and divided the gluing up into sections. I glued the top face first at the one end of the dog leg in that big dip and let that sit overnight then move down the top of the piece and glued that and glued a little down both sides let sit overnight--- then did the last dog leg and let that sit then work the material around the sides and ends
 
Back
Top