• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)

Clutch Throw? Datsun 5 speed.

Share this page

Pythias

Pythias

Jedi Knight
Offline
The last couple of times I've driven the car (once a month since winter came) I've noticed that I have to push the pedal half way down before I feel any resistance with the clutch pedal.

The first time I try to go the car goes into gear just fine, but it won't come out of gear. I've had to kill the car in gear with the brake. Then I pump the pedal a couple of times and everything works perfectly for the rest of the drive. I've had one suggestion that the adjuster has backed off, and one that I may need a master cylinder rebuild. I though maybe I just need to re-bleed the clutch circuit.

Suggestions, comments?

I'm about to start working 10 hour days and won't have time to really address this until mid March.
 
In my experience with the Rivergate, I cannot adjust the clutch to bite anywhere but the very bottom of pedal travel with inducing slip in high torque situations. If I try to move the engagement point closer to the top of the stroke it starts to slip in 5th when I floor it on a hill. I do not know if this is unique to my installation or if it is a common event.
 
Bill, if I were you I'd try a turn or two on the adjusting bolt. Thats the simplest though I believe the problem could be any you mentioned.

If you compare apples to apples the spridget with a 3/4" bore should use a 7/8" slave to be closest to what datsun used and therefore get the right stroke out of the slave. If you are using the rivergate kit you have a 3/4" slave and will , in my opinion, over extend the trowout if you adjust the rod too tightly.
 
Bill,
If pumping the pedal helps, this would indicate it's the Master Cylinder. The clue that over time, the condition has worsened would add to my theory.
Have someone look at the slave cylinder and note the travel on the first pump. Then 'pump it up' and have them see if there is more travel. If so, it's M/C time
JMHO, Phil
 
I had the same problem on mine ('66) several times and finally gave up and had it redone thru Gerrard. Not cheap but definitely worth it! NO problems since.
BillM
 
I checked the adjuster and it's all the way out, as I believe it was when we installed it (by the way it's a Morris Service kit NOT Rivergate. It uses the original slave cylinder).
Even when I pump it a couple of times, it still only engages in the last 1/2 of the throw.

I had it rebuilt years and years ago by Apple Hydraulics. They did a good job, despite what many others seem to have experienced, but Sierra, through Gerard has a sterling reputation and will get my business this time.
 
I put the car up on jacks (I got two more for Christmas and can now raise the whole thing. What a difference!) this afternoon. I just now went down and pushed the pedal and it feels the same now as it did when I last drove it. That is it doesn't feel like I "pumped it up", but the throw still only starts 1/2 way down... makes me wish I could remember where it felt like I had back pressure last year...
 
Bill,

It sounds like you have too much free play. Have you tried adjusting the pushrod at the master cylinder? A small adjustment there will make a big difference. I recently replace a clutch in a Morris that had the same symptom you describe. The problem turned out to be two fold: a) the Datsun return spring was off it's holder which kept the throw out bearing out too far (I did not install the original, so I don't know if was installed wrong or if it popped off) , and b) the pressure plate springs were failing and uneven.

Also, I don't recall now which push rod Paul used to supply with the kit, but I have switched to a longer version as I found some people (especially on later non-adjustable push rod MC's) were running out of adjustment with the standard one.

The other possibility (of course) is air in the line. You would get the same "pump-up" temporary fix with the aforementioned issues.
 
I may try the pushrod at the master cylinder adjustment. I haven't played with that in quite a while.. Thanx for the idea.
 
Be slightly careful with that. If the slave cylinder in the master is not returning fully (thus requiring you to lengthen the rod)it will not get the fluid replenished and could lead to more problems.
Try to determine that the cylinder IS returning fully first. The return spring could be broken.
BillM
 
Back
Top