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Clutch stuck, a bleed doesn't help.

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steved033

steved033

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Hey everyone, long time.

I'm finally getting back to the Healey...

So, I've bled the clutch again, and the action seems good, but the clutch doesn't release. Both the master and the slave cylinders have been rebuilt, there's new soft line, and the fluid is fresh.

The clutch master is a 5/8" girling.

I'm thinking one of a couple things.

1. inside the master is the rubber seal in the little crown looking part. I replaced the crown looking part with a machined one, maybe that is off.

2. it's something in the clutch release itself.

any ideas?

The car is a 1957 100-6 longbridge car.

sjd
 
The clutch plate could be stuck to your flywheel.

Has it sat for a long time? Can it be driven?
 
Hello,

The other day after having the car 100-6 sitting for months the clutch was stuck. With the car in neutral everything was fine still till the attempt to put it in 1 st gear, which was impossible.

I rolled the car out of the garage put it in its gear with the clutch pedal down started the engine and let up the clutch up each time a little further(slipping don't know if this is the right word)but with pumping the pedal several times till the moment you felt the engine would turn off till full release. at the moment it is working properly

Hope it will helps

Harry
 
harry, you probably scrubbed the surface rust off of it. it'll work fine for a while.

Wish I had a big driveway so I could get it started, and moving, and see if the torque of the engine would free it up.

Looks like it's coming apart.

sjd
 
had a similar problem with both my Sprite, and with a friends TR6. In both cases, we warmed up the engine, shut it down, then restarted it with the car in gear, and the clutch depressed. Because the engine was warm, if fired up immediately, and broke the disc free of the flywheel. Good luck.
 
Hi Steve. I'm just about finished with my five year restoration of my 66 BJ8, and live in your area. Shoot me a pm if you need help. Jim
 
If the slave is working, that would indicate that the master is doing it's job too. So I'd think you could eliminate #1 in your original post as a problem. Sounds like what everyone else is saying.
 
Yes Steve, as some others are saying it too sounds to me like the clutch plate is stuck fast to the flywheel. Here is the experience I had with that.
My car sat for 15 years before I bought it. got engine running and rebuilt all hydralic components, including brakes. engine ran perfect and had brakes but would not go into gear.
After deciding it was clutch plate stuck to flywheel,
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO IMMEDIATE TRAFFIC IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, put it in 1st or 2nd gear, THEN START THE ENGINE, it will take right off depending which gear your start in it will not go that fast., point it down the street, and tromp on the gas pedal. (keep your OTHER foot off the clutch pedal) The sudden tork to the drive line will break the cluch plate free. Once it snaps free press on the clutch and you will have an opperating clutch. It actually took me about 5 or 6 attempts on different Saturdays before it snapped free. To tell you where my mind was during this, on the day it broke free, I had just told my wife, 'if is doesn't come free on this attempt, I guess I'll be pulling the tranny'.
It broke free just then, and has been working touble free for 6 wonderful summers.
 
vette said:
Yes Steve, as some others are saying it too sounds to me like the clutch plate is stuck fast to the flywheel. Here is the experience I had with that.
My car sat for 15 years before I bought it. got engine running and rebuilt all hydralic components, including brakes. engine ran perfect and had brakes but would not go into gear.
After deciding it was clutch plate stuck to flywheel,
MAKE SURE THERE IS NO IMMEDIATE TRAFFIC IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD, put it in 1st or 2nd gear, THEN START THE ENGINE, it will take right off depending which gear your start in it will not go that fast., point it down the street, and tromp on the gas pedal. (keep your OTHER foot off the clutch pedal) The sudden tork to the drive line will break the cluch plate free. Once it snaps free press on the clutch and you will have an opperating clutch. It actually took me about 5 or 6 attempts on different Saturdays before it snapped free. To tell you where my mind was during this, on the day it broke free, I had just told my wife, 'if is doesn't come free on this attempt, I guess I'll be pulling the tranny'.
It broke free just then, and has been working touble free for 6 wonderful summers.
Click to expand...
This has happened to me on a few occassions. Start the engine and get it warm. Shut it down and select 2nd gear. Start the engine back up and with it in gear. Usually the clutch will free itself up within a few minutes.
Patrick
 
Cutlass said:
Hi Steve. I'm just about finished with my five year restoration of my 66 BJ8, and live in your area. Shoot me a pm if you need help. Jim
Click to expand...

I always need help. mostly just scheduling time to work on the car.

pm me or shoot me an e-mail (even if you just want to see it)

steved033 at charter dot net

sjd
 
My tactic has been to get the rear wheels off the ground with the chassis on jackstands. With the engine running and the car in a high gear, put some revs on it (smoothly, so as not to tip the car off the supports) and whil holding the clutch pedal in, stab the brakes a few times.

While I've never failed to get a clutch to release with that method, I can't say that the clutch, now working freely, didn't still need to be replaced anyway.
 
Frozen clutch. I've experienced this problem with my Elan twice. As others have suggested, either push start or get the car started in 1st using the starter motor (worked with the Lotus). Make sure you have plenty of clear road in front of you, helps if you are on an incline. It took a number of tries but the way I broke it free was by mashing the gas pedal and stabbing the brake symultaniously. After it broke free, I drove it around and feathered the clutch a number of times to rub off the surface rust. Although the whole operation was rather traumatic, the car was fine afterwards. As stated, it is possible to do this with the rear end up on jack stands, but man you better be certain everything is stable and vibration free...if not, a minor problem can turn into a major disaster in a hurry. Good luck!
 
Steve,

Bought a XKE several years ago with same problem, I cranked it in gear (2nd), drove it around giving it gas and letting off quickly for what seemed like an hour before it broke loose. It worked fine after that. Have done TR6s that sat for a while the same way. The flywheel and clutch plate rust will act like glue to the clutch disc. I've pulled trannies off of bad/stuck engines and had to pry the clutch disc off the flywheel.

Good luck

Marv
 
Visiting from the Triumph forum, thoroughly enjoyed the Porsche/Healy saga!
My buddy's got a 356 in his garage since 1975, I emailed the link to get him fired up! Best of luck w/ your car!
 
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