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Clutch Still Slipping after replacing 30W-Non-Det. for Red Line

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Might want to let that carb cleaner air out of the bell housing for a while before firing up the motor.

Wile-Termite-Terrace-1024x859.jpg
 
'ell, spray it in there while it's running. Work the clutch a few times. No Go Nads! :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile:
 
Mmmm No quick long term fix really Ray

Not sure how you access the bell housing. Mine does not have a viewing panel ( from memory) that can be removed.

Any way sorry to say that my advice would be to whip the gearbox out, that is what I did, yes it is a bear but it did reveal a plethora of problems. - Clutch housing springs - shot, thrust washer worn unevenly as a result - shot, sintered bearing in the end of the crankshaft - shot, clutch operating fork bearings needed replacing and of course the clutch plate nicely oiled. I put in an after market crank seal and renewed the bell house/gearbox seal whilst I was at it.

:cheers:

Bob
 
If it doesn't clear up soon, I believe I would resort to Bob Hughes' way of thinking.
 
Hi All,

Rick, you are really on FIRE.... Hope I won't be. I thought the idea had promise as I had no issues prior to my stupidity of filling the trans with Red Line when 1/2 had done well for 4 years with no issues. I am thinking of trying the Carb Cleaner, not with a running engine, but by repositioning the engine a few times with the starter. Since I will be blind spraying the cleaner through the bottom drip opening, so I am not really sure where the spray will land. However, since this is an idea used by the Healey Rally team with good success and they also knew of the radiator Hot Air Recirculation, all without letting anyone else know, I am thinking of trying it. Bob, if this succeeds and I can postpone the clutch replacement to the Fall, it would help immeasurably.

Thanks Vette for supplying the idea,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
There is a cover at the clutch arm. Can it be removed and sprayed there?
 
Hi All,

Drone Dog, that is a good suggestion. What I now must determine is where the carb cleaner plastic tube will be able to address the clutch and pressure plate. If the fork arm opening at the is too far back it may not work and the drip hole may be better. Hopefully one of the access points, now identified, will be able to provide a decent shot to clean the clutch and pressure plate.

Thanks for the idea,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
Hi All, update

When out to purchase Carburetor Cleaner to spray on the clutch, I was warned that spraying it on the organic clutch could cause its disintegration. The mechanic I was talking to indicated that Carburetor Cleaner was formulated to clean metal and using it to haphazardly try to clean the clutch is not a good idea.

What do you think?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
I would agree with Rick. I think I would be comfortable using carb cleaner if it was possible to wipe it down immediately afterward. I really didn't think about any negative affect when I read it in the book and subsequently suggested it. So as Rick has said, Brake Cleaner is intended to be sprayed liberally on brake pads so......... otta work.

If is keeps on slipping you really don't have much to lose. As they say, ' if it ain't broke don't fix it, and if it's broke ya can't hurt it'.
 
Hi All,

The brake cleaner seems a better choice and, as both have pointed out, is meant for cleaning similar materials.

Thanks guys,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
I tried to clean some oil-soaked brake shoes--the material, I presume, is similar to clutch material--with brake cleaner and sandpaper; no matter how much I sprayed and sanded oil still oozed out. I sometimes wish Healey bellhousings had an inspection port like on some cars.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I tried to clean some oil-soaked brake shoes--the material, I presume, is similar to clutch material--with brake cleaner and sandpaper; no matter how much I sprayed and sanded oil still oozed out. I sometimes wish Healey bellhousings had an inspection port like on some cars.
Click to expand...

Truth is, I don't give this a very good chance of working, particularly where the oil has had a chance to soak in for a while. But it's certainly worth a couple of cans of Brakleen to try it and avoid yanking the transmission.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
I tried to clean some oil-soaked brake shoes--the material, I presume, is similar to clutch material--with brake cleaner and sandpaper; no matter how much I sprayed and sanded oil still oozed out. I sometimes wish Healey bellhousings had an inspection port like on some cars.
Click to expand...


Got a dremel BOB cut chu one
 
Keoke said:
Got a dremel BOB cut chu one
Click to expand...
( sharp intake of breath)

Good idea Keoke, then he can remove the bell housing and gear box to remove the swarf.:scared:

On the other hand if the job is done properly and the gearbox and bell housing is removed and the clutch replaced, a port could be cut into the bell housing prior to reinstatement.

As an aside, I have heard tell and I can not verify this, the BMC mechanics team changed a Healey clutch in an hour on one of the rallies.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Hi All,

I, as well, don't give the application of Braklean much of a chance of success as even placing it to attack the oil will require lots of luck (something I have not had). However, I would be happy if I could postpone the clutch replacement till Fall.

As far as the port in the bell housing is concerned, I have had them in other cars and never used them or needed to. This has been the only time in 54 years that I would have wanted, and used, a port to view the clutch disk.

So, if I change the clutch and stick to 30W, how many miles will I expect to put on the new clutch?

Thanks All for your support and comments and contributions,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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Bob Hughes said:
As an aside, I have heard tell and I can not verify this, the BMC mechanics team changed a Healey clutch in an hour on one of the rallies.

:cheers:

Bob
Click to expand...

Hi Bob, How's this for verification? Hope the print comes out. From the book 'Small Wonders' by Marcus Chambers. It was in the 1960 Liege-Rome-Liege Rally. See Attached:
 

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Gosh Ray, that is one big question that you have come up with.

I can tell you one thing for sure - it will not last forever.

A lot will depend on how much oil slips past the end of the crank, how much you ride the clutch, how often you drive it etc.

I bought mine in 2002 and the state of things inside that bell housing was unknown. Slipping was detected early 2007 and that was when I had a major rebuild of things inside that housing. It has been 10 years now so I guess that I have cleared at least 20 thousand plus - I will try and work it out properly as I have fiddled with the milometer trying to clean it and fit a new reset spindle. Others will give you a better handle on it than I can.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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