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Clutch slipping

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emann

emann

Senior Member
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Finally got my BE back on the road (see "Finally, the missing piece" post).

While under restoration, I drove up and down the street gingerly and never had any clutch issues.

Now, after getting out on the street and pushing the car a little, I have a really bad slip of the clutch above about 3000rpm. If you try to accelerate too fast, the clutch slips, the engine revs, but the car doesn't go any faster.

The clutch plate and throwout bearing were replaced 20 years ago but have almost no mileage on them as the car has been in storage.

What issues should I look into:

oil on the clutch plate?
pedal box pushrod adjustment?
slave cylinder pushrod?
the clutch line doesn't have flex hose does it?

Any other issues?
Any way to narrow down the problem?

(See, I knew I'd be back with more questions even though I'm finally on the road /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
If the clutch is new or low mileage, check the master cylinder rod adjustment. Many times the clutch/brake rods get mixed up when being rebuilt or removed from the car.
If the clutch feels too high, shorter the rod.
The slave rod may be too long too. 948s used a short rod, 1275s had a 2-11/16" rod, too long for a 948.
If there is oil on the clutch, it should burn off in a few miles, the way these engines leak, not much oil gets to the clutch disc, it all comes out the rear of the engine.
 
Thanks Spritenut.

It was just a master cylinder rod adjustment.

I had a lot of trouble turning it though (the brake one turns easily), so I'll probably be replacing that and the fork it screws into this winter when I rebuild the master cylinder.

With the clutch working now, I was able to take my daughter to soccer practice last night in the BE. Boy did we draw a crowd !!!
 
Hehe, crowds are fun, note how everyone smiles and kids wave.
 
emann said:
I was able to take my daughter to soccer practice last night in the BE. Boy did we draw a crowd !!!
Click to expand...

WhhoooHaaaaa
 
emann said:
Thanks Spritenut.

It was just a master cylinder rod adjustment.

I had a lot of trouble turning it though (the brake one turns easily), so I'll probably be replacing that and the fork it screws into this winter when I rebuild the master cylinder.

With the clutch working now, I was able to take my daughter to soccer practice last night in the BE. Boy did we draw a crowd !!!
Click to expand...

You just took me back to when my boys were young and I coached their soccer teams. We always arrived in the BE. They were the stars!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

PS: It's amazing how much soccer gear can be stored in the boot of a BE!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Is it possible to remove the master cylinder pushrods without removing the master cylinder from the car and without having to bleed everything again?

I'm having trouble screwing the pushrod further into the fork so I can adjust the clutch travel. i was thinking I'd take the pushrod and fork off the car and see if i can clean them up and get them working together better.

In other words, if I remove the push rod, the internals to the master cylinder should stay in place, right?

And then I can put the pushrod back in place?

TIA,
Ed
 
Yep, they will.
 
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