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T-Series Clutch slave Q?

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The only way it will drip is if fluid is getting past the seal. They are super easy to rebuild, but you'll have to bleed the system when you're done.
 
....and that super easy rebuild turns into a big job. I had some luck with it the first time on my GT and it was not so bad. The fitting where the hose meets the hard line is frozen on the roadster so I did not change yet. The rebuilt one is still sitting on the bench. When the bad weather comes up it'll be on the list of things to do.
 
If you loosen the line FIRST (before detaching the slave from the tranny) with a line wrench, it's MUCH easier.
 
Engine is out of the car so everything is super easy right now. It's only 9 months old at the most so I think I'm going to warranty it with moss. Hopefully this time they will have the good Lockheed version available. My only worry is the slave was some how damaged by the pushrod which I cant believe I didn't catch it at first but it was not the stock one and is some cobbled up Budweiser inspired replacement. If it had booger welds it would almost be as good as the original alternator mount.
 
I'd say th' rod had NOTHING to do with it, Stew.
 
Line wrenches! I need Line Wrenches!
 
Pipe wrenches and hammers work as well, at least for getting frustrations out.

I have not had a lot of luck with rebuilding the cylinders, 1 good, three bad.

If Moss will warranty the unit, I would go that way, if not, it might be worth looking into a replacement.

I checked my catalog, and I found the Beck-Arnley number in case you want to try to find it local.

Clutch Slave Cyl Assy - 072-4260
 
I have rebuilt cyllinders in all of the English lumps here. They've lasted decades. The B ~sat~ for five years and the hydraulics still work. That's not to say they won't collapse the MOMENT I finally insure and tag th' beast tho. :wink:
 
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