TR2/3/3A Clutch Slave adjustment...concerning adjusting rod length.

[karls59tr]

I have a TR6 gearbox in my TR3. I just replaced the clutch and am now attempting to set the clutch free play at the slave cylinder. I have the clutch slave bracket mounted in back of the bell housing flange and the slave cylinder mounted in front of the bracket. With the gearbox shaft lever stopped as far back as it would go towards the back of the car. It seems that in order to line up the clevis hole with the 2nd shaft lever hole I would have to remove approx. 3/8" from the adjustment rod otherwise the rod would block the pin from going in. It seems to me I once read on a forum that this might be necessary because of the way the clutch slave is mounted for the 6 box in the 3. Am I on the right track here? Any input is most appreciated. Also:What is the normal range of movement of the clutch shaft lever with the clevis,adjuster rod and spring not attached to the shaft lever? PS I had to pull the gearbox to remove broken starter parts and the clutch was on my to do list anyway. Karl

 

[Sarastro]

Be sure you have the slave cylinder mounted correctly. Here is the mounting on my TR4A; it is consistent with the shop manual. Beyond that, I have found it necessary, in some LBCs, to redesign the pushrod. It shouldn't be necessary, but sometimes....

 

[CJD]

+1 Over the years there were 3 methods of mounting the slave cylinder, with 3 different length rods. You can either figure out how to mount the cylinder for the rod you have, or modify the rod (if you are sure it is off) to fit the mounting you have.