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Clutch repair
- Thread starter hama61
- Start date
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I'll start a wiki:
Get a pilot tool for location of clutch disc.
With car raised on stands:
Disconnect battery
Remove seats & shift lever. Remove both tunnels. Disconnect overdrive wiring.
Cover car floor between center and passenger door with plywood (for sliding transmission across floor)
Disconnect driveshaft from trans (and axle if necessary).
Remove starter motor
Disconnect clutch linkage from bell housing operating lever (this is a 4-cyl, right?).
Support rear of engine (undo throttle linkage if necessary).
Support transmission with floor jack or transmission jack.
Loop old fan belt around rear of trans as a handle.
Undo rear transmission mount from under the car
Undo and remove bolts around engine plate. Note which are dowel bolts and placement of bolts as they are different lengths .
Do not allow trans to hang from first motion shaft. Make sure engine and trans are both supported when you're disconnecting the trans. I was able to insert a wood block between the valve cover and firewall which kept the engine from tilting backward. It pretty much balances on the front motor mounts.
It is possible to pull the trans rearward into the passenger compartment and slide it out the passenger door. You need plenty of pieces of wood to support it and to protect the carpet. This is a two person job.
With the trans out, you'll be looking at the clutch
Now for the humor:
Re-installation is the reverse of removal.
Get a pilot tool for location of clutch disc.
With car raised on stands:
Disconnect battery
Remove seats & shift lever. Remove both tunnels. Disconnect overdrive wiring.
Cover car floor between center and passenger door with plywood (for sliding transmission across floor)
Disconnect driveshaft from trans (and axle if necessary).
Remove starter motor
Disconnect clutch linkage from bell housing operating lever (this is a 4-cyl, right?).
Support rear of engine (undo throttle linkage if necessary).
Support transmission with floor jack or transmission jack.
Loop old fan belt around rear of trans as a handle.
Undo rear transmission mount from under the car
Undo and remove bolts around engine plate. Note which are dowel bolts and placement of bolts as they are different lengths .
Do not allow trans to hang from first motion shaft. Make sure engine and trans are both supported when you're disconnecting the trans. I was able to insert a wood block between the valve cover and firewall which kept the engine from tilting backward. It pretty much balances on the front motor mounts.
It is possible to pull the trans rearward into the passenger compartment and slide it out the passenger door. You need plenty of pieces of wood to support it and to protect the carpet. This is a two person job.
With the trans out, you'll be looking at the clutch
Now for the humor:
Re-installation is the reverse of removal.
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
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Or .....
bob hughes
Luke Skywalker
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I'm with Steveg,
However, I would make sure that the supporting wood lies flat with the U/S of the gear box and through to the rear of the engine, the throttle link across the carbs must be disconnected from the bulkhead (don't ask how I know) or you will bend that bulkhead bracket. There are three trans mounts at the rear - they must all be undone as well as that horizontal rear support rod. You jack up the rear of the engine and the trans so that the rear of the trans clears any obstructions and from memory you pull back into the tunnel first before you shuffle the gearbox out onto the cockpit floor.
Bob
However, I would make sure that the supporting wood lies flat with the U/S of the gear box and through to the rear of the engine, the throttle link across the carbs must be disconnected from the bulkhead (don't ask how I know) or you will bend that bulkhead bracket. There are three trans mounts at the rear - they must all be undone as well as that horizontal rear support rod. You jack up the rear of the engine and the trans so that the rear of the trans clears any obstructions and from memory you pull back into the tunnel first before you shuffle the gearbox out onto the cockpit floor.
Bob
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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There are also two bolts that screw into either the O/D or the center mount from underneath the support rail (at least on my BJ8, there is). I 'forgot' about them when I had the car on the grease pit, and it was a bit of a pain to get to them after we rolled the car into the barn to pull the engine.