• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Clutch release bearing question

tim66ah

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi I have a 60 sprite with 948 and ribcase. Swapping engines to a rebuilt 948. Clutch was working at very end of travel so I inspected it all looks new yet. But it had 948 bearing and took most of the clutch travel to make contact with pressure plate. Installed 1275 carbon bearing. After assembling I was searching the net and found out there has been problems with the new bearing with roll pin. I have one from moss, it appears to be glued in too. Should I be concerned?
 
I Will run with it and the engine is so simple to remove, I'll change it out in a few hours if it should fail.
 
It sounds like you have the push rod for a smooth case tranny the rib case takes a longer rod
smooth 2.5
rib 3"
image.jpg
 
Last edited:
It sounds like you have the push rod for a smooth case tranny the rib case takes a longer rod
smooth 2.5
rib 3"
View attachment 40662

The longer pushrod is only used on the 1275 with the 1" slave cylinder, not selected by ribcase or smooth alone. Don't use a longer pushrod to compensate for other issues or you risk bending the fork. See the link in the previous post.
 
I have long push rod and 1 inch slave. My original post are the new carbon release bearings with roll pin any better, or do they fail early?

I hate to have it fail, but don't care to spend $200+ on roller.
 
I have long push rod and 1 inch slave. My original post are the new carbon release bearings with roll pin any better, or do they fail early?

I hate to have it fail, but don't care to spend $200+ on roller.

You don't want a roller anyway. Our cars are not designed for them and their life isn't great. If things are up to snuff and you don't ride the clutch the good carbon TO bearings give good life.

Kurt.
 
I went thru the whole smooth and rib tranny issues 12 years ago
you Need this you need that in the end I gave up trying to make this work reliably
i just wanted to be able to drive it
i put in the Rivergate kit and took care of the no sync in first the noisy box the leak from the scroll seal roller throw out.
and it's fun to drive .sure I'm going to get the the flack about it s not original and if you did it correctly the rib tranny is fine and if you rebuild the scroll it won't leak
but honestly a modern style throw out bearing and the rest I'm happy with what I have
i changed to many bearings and a few forks
15,600 smiles on it so far yes smiles
 
On the Datsun transmission and every other transmission with a roller TO bearing the bearing runs on a sleeve that keep's it exactly concentric to the shaft through it's whole range of motion. The BMC transmission doesn't work that way. The TO bearing makes an arc as it moves so it need's to slide a little sideways as well. That does not work well with the roller conversion. Its trying to spin off center steel on steel.

Kurt.
 
Back
Top