• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Clutch question

  • Thread starter Deleted member 3254
  • Start date
D

Deleted member 3254

Guest
Guest
Offline
After a long wait, my engine rebuild is supposed to be completed by next Friday. Then, it's time to put the '59 Bugeye back together again. The newly rebuilt engine is a 1275 and the trans is the original smoothcase - I know it would have been better to replace the trans with a newer unit, but it was performing well and I'm on a limited budget etc... My question concerns the appropriate replacement clutch kit to use - my gut tells me I should order the original 948/smoothcase version. Has anyone else gone thru this and do you have any advice? I appreciate the vast amount of experience you all have. I know just enough to get into trouble. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go thru the process of putting it all back together again.
 
If you are using the stock 1275 flywheel (which I would expect) then you have to use a 1275 clutch disk and pressure plate. You also may need to use a 1275 T.O. bearing & fork, and you might need to use a different slave cylinder and pushrod to get the travel correct.
 
1275 clutch and p/plate for sure, it's the only one that will fit. All the t/o bearings are the same but the smooth case vs rib case release forks are a bit different. You might have to experiment with the slave cyl rod length.
Stock 1275 is 2 11/16" from center of hole to end. I know the 948 is shorter, but I do not know by how much. There again, the 948 clutch was deeper so maybe, everything will work.
To make a "makeshift" slave rod, take a 3" long 3/8" bolt, cut the head off, heat it red hot and smash one end semi flat to where you can drill a 5/16" hole in it for the clevis pin. Round off the other end a bit with a grinder and you have a starting point. Gradually cut off 1/4" of the bolt until you have the correct length.
You can tell by the clutch pedal feel and just make sure the t/o bearing is clear of the p/plate by 1/16 to 1/8" when your foot is off the pedal. You can sort of see this thru the inspection hole.

Frank
 
Thanks for your help - I would have gotten into trouble without it! I'm getting my parts list ready for an order and keeping my fingers crossed that the rebuilt engine will be delivered Friday.
Charlie
 
Back
Top