• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Clutch Question

Share this page

M

mxp01

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Gentlemen:

This question has probably been answered several times already, but let me try it again:

- I have a 1960 BE with an 1100 engine. I replaced the tranny over the winter with rebuilt ribcase that I believe came off a later model Sprite/Midget. I say this because it has a fitting for an electrical connector up near the gear shift, which wasn't on the ribcase I took out of the car.

- We have replaced the clutch, TO bearing, and and the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is from Moss and is for a 948/1100.

- My son installed everything and bled the system. He said that the plunger within the slave is coming out as far as possible, but that it does not push the pushrod far enough to get the clutch disengaged.

Is the solution a different pushrod? Moss sells two pushrods, especially a different one for a 1275/1500.

Let me know,
Mike Pennell
 
Place a 7/16 nut between the end of the push rod and the inside of the slave cylinder and try that. Maybe, just maybe.
 
The 1100 has the three-finger clutch, not the diaphragm clutch, yes?

I think these are often not well adjusted at the factory, so the height of the plate that the release bearing pushes (whattaya call that sucker?) is often not right. Then, the release lever is so far to the rear of the car that it can't release completely. The clutch in my bugeye had that problem, and eventually one of the adjustment nuts came loose, and it was so far off that I actually blew the piston out of the slave cylinder!

Not much you can do about that, if it's a problem, short of pulling the engine again. But you can just install a longer pushrod, if one exists. At one point, I actually lengthened one. Pity these aren't adjustable in length, like they were in my old TR4A.
 
Our research shows that Moss does sell two different pushrods. One is about 1/2 inch longer than the other. Will that little distance make a difference?

Mike Pennell
 
It makes a difference because the clutch is not normally adjustable. The expected wear of the TO bearing (graphite) is somewhat in line with the expected wear of the clutch disc. Therefore the overall adjustment remains nearly constant over the life of the clutch.

Given a different pushrod length, adjustment should never be correct, unless in certain cases one of the wear parts is worn and the other is new.
 
It makes a difference because the clutch is not normally adjustable. The expected wear of the TO bearing (graphite) is somewhat in line with the expected wear of the clutch disc. Therefore the overall adjustment remains nearly constant over the life of the clutch.

Given a different pushrod length, adjustment should never be correct, unless in certain cases one of the wear parts is worn and the other is new.
 
As I said before just slip a nut in there to test it then you can be a PDO, hehe.

Adjustable links are availavle, I have seen them some place.
 
Doesn't the Rib Case take a thicker back plate on the engine or is my brain thinking about something else? Could this be part of the issue? Or since the slave mounts to the tranny makes no difference.

Bugsy my '68 uses a Smoothcase Tranny with a transplanted 1098. Done by P.O. so I have no idea on backplate used in this case.
 
i used a small socket on mine once....
stays on the end of the rod a lil
better while u r reassembling...z
 
Jim, a rib case will bolt up to a 948 back plate just fine.
 
Back
Top