Clutch Problems

[mdionne]

I’ve only test driven my 1500 a few times and have never gone more than ½ mile with no apparent clutch problems. This week got brave and drove almost 2 miles. When I got a mile out I turned around and could not push clutch pedal enough to change gears. It has always shifted at the absolute bottom of pedal but not this time. Pumped clutch a few times and was able to shift gears. Checked reservoir and it was empty. I’ve never checked it before. I filled reservoir.
So, I got my Mity Vac out and proceeded to bleed slave. Not sure if I did it right but here’s what I did. With clutch pedal not pushed in I created vacuum on slave and opened bleed screw. Got all kinds of air and very little fluid. I then pushed in clutch and held it there with stick. Created vacuum on slave and again very little fluid and all air. So I decided to bleed it without the Mity Vac. Got help to push and hold clutch in while I loosened bleeder and fluid came out, no bubbles. I closed bleeder at bottom of clutch pedal. Repeated this several times until I drained about a cup of fluid out. Also kept an eye on reservoir.
Took car back on road and after first mile problem returned. Was able to pump clutch to shift gears to get home. It seems I have to drive for little bit for this to occur. Is there any tell tale signs here that could point me to a faulty slave cylinder, master cylinder, or faulty mechanic?

 

[Gerard]

You are probably leaking fluid (or air) somewhere, most likely past the seal in the slave cylinder. Check the master cylinder for signs of a leak too. If the bore in the slave is very pitted, don't bother with a seal kit, either have it sleeved or buy a new one. If you want to have it sleeved, I'll post a referral for you.

 

[sparkydave]

It wouldn't be too hard to check the slave for leakage, just one clamp bolt and you can pull the cylinder out. If you pull the dust cap off the end and it's wet underneath, you found the problem. FYI, that dust cap makes a tight seal with the slave pushrod, and if when you push it back on, it builds up a nice air pocket under the dust seal. Once you work the clutch a few times, you'll have to bleed it again. Trust me on this one.

Sounds like you definitely have a leak. You can take the cover off the pedal box and look for wetness too, but the leak is bad enough it might be getting your shoes wet.

The biggest headache to bleeding the 1500 clutch is that the hose arches higher than the master cylinder, and normal bleeding methods leave an air pocket up there. It's translucent, so you can see it. I've used the Mityvac successfully, but once you've done it with that I found you have to stomp hard and fast on the clutch pedal a few times to get rid of the air pocket. You may have to bleed it once more.

Using the Mityvac with the pedal depressed is redundant; it's already under pressure, so opening the bleeder will release the pressure. If you use the Mityvac after the pressure is relieved, it won't be able to pull any fluid from the master cylinder because the piston is blocking the opening, and you may start sucking air past the slave cylinder seal instead. Stick to using the Mityvac with the pedal released.

 

[JPSmit]

When i bleed the clutch i take the MC off the car and hold it higher. Pump it a few times by hand (screwdrive in hole where clevis pin goes) and it's done. Never taken more than two minutes and only about fifteen to remove, reinstall.

 

[Sarastro]

I've never had success bleeding anything with th mity-vac. It just sucks in air around the bleed screw threads. I like using a pressure bleeder or the old fashioned, two person method.

 

[SilentUnicorn]

I have had good experiences with my mighty vac. I use a little teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder screw. Works well for me.


m

 

[Sarastro]

I don't doubt it. Something like that ought to work, but I don't think the mity-vac would be successful without some kind of seal.