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After replacing master & slave cylinder and flex line and two weeks of joy, the same problem has arisen. I have to pump up the clutch several times to be able to get it into gear. In addition, it is shifting hard, almost like you are shifting without the clutch. With engine off, the shift lever moves freely - like it always has. No problem ever with the gearbox. The fluid in the M/C is still at the top so no leaks. I plan to try an experiment tomorrow - start it up in gear - in reverse of course, in the garage, with my foot all the way down on the pedal. If the car moves, it will prove one of two things - either the hydraulic system is not working at the slave cylinder or the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. I told the shop to install the slave with the bleed screw on the top and the pin in the middle hole as recommended. Is there something else I should be testing and how do I know which it is? This is very discouraging, especially after over $600 worth of work.
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TR6 Clutch problem not solved
- Thread starter pdplot
- Start date
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Madflyer
Jedi Knight
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Not a uncommon problem. Replacing Master and slave is OK also. So now that is done no reason to go backwards. You now have all new. Your master cyl is one inch bore slave is 3/4 bore. So one inch of travel equals one inch plus slave travel. this is what it takes to release clutch. If you have any play in rod, pin, or free play at peddle you lose the one inch. pumping says air in slave so bleed again. If you move to top arm hole and is better you have covered up problem so find the problem as top hole makes for stiffer peddle. With the bleeder on top as required hard to get to and some air may remain.. Madflyer
No ramps. But this am, I started car in reverse with clutch pushed in - nothing. No motion. I then tried shifting with engine running. Everything normal. You'd never know there was any problem. I'll let car sit for a week and then try it again. If clutch sticking after sitting, then I'll know. Its also possible that travel isn't enough to release clutch. How much should it travel and can you see it move or is it all internal?
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
When the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor, the tip of clutch shaft arm with the 3 holes should swing to the rear about 5/8 or 3/4 of an inch..not much.
The reason I asked about the ramp, I was going to suggest a way to bleed the slave if you need to again.
Just elevate the front of the car a bit and if it's on top just barely open the slave bleed nipple....you just want a drip, not a stream because you'll be back watching the level in the master cylinder and you don't want it to drain too fast...Let the level drop about half way, then top it up and let it drop one more time half way and top it up again,
If you're alone get ready to lay back down and close the nipple.
When you get back up, top up the master again.
That should take care of any air.
The reason I asked about the ramp, I was going to suggest a way to bleed the slave if you need to again.
Just elevate the front of the car a bit and if it's on top just barely open the slave bleed nipple....you just want a drip, not a stream because you'll be back watching the level in the master cylinder and you don't want it to drain too fast...Let the level drop about half way, then top it up and let it drop one more time half way and top it up again,
If you're alone get ready to lay back down and close the nipple.
When you get back up, top up the master again.
That should take care of any air.
Thanks. I'll let it sit about a week and try it then. I can jack up the front and put stands on both sides of the frame. Laying underneath will not be fun but my wife will be instructed to keep filling the M/C as it goes down. I'll make sure I have a rubber hose to attach to the bleeder.