TR2/3/3A clutch pedal connection hole

[sp53]

This clutch pedal connection hole is egged shaped and I am looking for suggestion on how to fill the hole some, and re-drill it. I just have a Sears’s middle of the road 110v mig welder, so can I fill this hole with it somehow. I guess turn the machine up and maybe I set the feeder like 2 and just give the weld hole short blasts and just keep caking the hole full of wire. Should I heat this piece up first or maybe have it filled with a stronger welder?

 

[Geo Hahn]

Seems to me (who has never done this) that a bushing welded or brazed into the (possibly enlarged) hole would give you the precise hole you need with less welding.

 

[TomMull]

I try to find or make a bushing for it. Tom

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, any hobby store should be able to sell you thin wall brass tubing. Ream the hole more or less round, force the tubing into it, trim off the excess. No heat required.

 

[CJD]

The bushing is an option, but with the arm only 3/16" wide there is not much bearing area for a bronze bush. The large sleeved center pivot would take a bronze sleeve easier, as it has much more bearing surface.

All of my linkages were oval. I fixed them by welding the holes completely closed and then carefully grinding the surfaces flat. Then, very important, I heated the area where the hole will be re-drilled to red hot with a torch...then allowed it to slowly cool by gradually removing the flame. This step is important, as it anneals the area and prevents chipping your drill bit on accidentally hardened spots in the weld.

These are not the exact same, but post #16 in this thread shows a bit of how I did it:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?96267-Early-Lockheed-Master-Cylinders

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I added weld to mine and redrilled.

Cheers,
Tush

 

[sp53]

Hey John, Would you think I need to heat the metal before the weld because of the smaller welder, but it really is kinda strong? Plus would you suggest my highest temp setting 1 thru 4 and then short blasts with a MIG and just build things up.
steve

 

[CJD]

No need to pre-heat. The pedal is low carbon steel, so it will take the weld without any problems. Match your welder heat setting to the thickness of the work. In this case about 3/16" steel should be level 3...and possibly even level 4 would work. Of course you will have to turn up your feed to correspond with the higher temp. If the feed is too slow, it will act like the weld is "skipping", with pauses during the weld. Slow feed also causes the wire to get stuck frequently in the tip, so you have to stop and clear the tip frequently. Fast feed spatters a whole lot, tends to get the wire stuck in the work, and pushes the tip away. So turn the feed up about 50% from where you have been working, and then read it from there to see if you need to adjust a bit.

As you say, work in small lines, building with each subsequent line. For such a small hole it will be relatively short bursts...like 2-4 seconds each. After all the thin metal welding you have done, this thick metal welding is pretty easy in contrast!

 

[charleyf]

+1 with Tush. And I have a Miller 110 V. Welder. I have done two with good results. No preheating or post heating done. I wonder if John's setting instructions are't for the 220 welders. I probably used 6 or higher.

 

[TR3driver]

Bronze (as in sintered bronze aka Oilite) might be a problem. But I've used hard brass as I suggested, and it works fine. It basically forms a soft face to the steel lever (the strength is still in the steel) similar to a rod bearing.

Yeah, it might wear out in another 50-60 years, especially if you neglect to add the occasional drop of oil. Then if you are still around, you can tap out the old remains, and use up another 1/4 inch of tubing.

But I expect to be beyond caring by that point