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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I broke the Brake MC before I even got the resevoir off.
[/QUOTE]
How'd'ya do that?
[/QUOTE]
How'd'ya do that?
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T-Series Clutch Master
- Thread starter Baz
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OP
Baz
Yoda
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i. Rounded out one of the resevoir holding screws.
ii. Spring shot off the piston and landed who knows where in the garage.
iii. Rounded off the bolt that hold the forward brake line.
I'll be honest, I wasn't relishing the idea of rebuilding the hyraulics as well as being paranoid that it was I that rebuilt the primary safety feature. Last thing I would need is a seal blowing and spewing brake fluid in the engine bay because I didn't know what I was doing.....
ii. Spring shot off the piston and landed who knows where in the garage.
iii. Rounded off the bolt that hold the forward brake line.
I'll be honest, I wasn't relishing the idea of rebuilding the hyraulics as well as being paranoid that it was I that rebuilt the primary safety feature. Last thing I would need is a seal blowing and spewing brake fluid in the engine bay because I didn't know what I was doing.....
OP
Baz
Yoda
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Re: Brake Master
Thank you Doc.
The rearmost port of the tandem, the one with the 7/8 bolt and the gooseneck, has a 180 hole running through the bolt, clearly to allow fluid through to the line.
There is a copper shim, and I've scratched the head of the bolt to show me where the hole runs.
In the absence of any more copper shims, is there a trick to getting this lined up sweet?
I don't think this needs to be a discussion of whether 'to shim or not to shim' as these are brakes, my brakes, and I want them to work.
Happy sunday! TIA.
Thank you Doc.
The rearmost port of the tandem, the one with the 7/8 bolt and the gooseneck, has a 180 hole running through the bolt, clearly to allow fluid through to the line.
There is a copper shim, and I've scratched the head of the bolt to show me where the hole runs.
In the absence of any more copper shims, is there a trick to getting this lined up sweet?
I don't think this needs to be a discussion of whether 'to shim or not to shim' as these are brakes, my brakes, and I want them to work.
Happy sunday! TIA.
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Re: Brake Master
Barry-
You don't need to line the bolt up exactly; the "banjo bolt" can sit at any position and still flow brake fluid. The "shank" / bolt shoulder is drilled and cut down to allow brake pressure at any position and the 90deg brass elbow is mostly hollow. Fluid flows at any position when tightened.
You'll be tempted to align it and tighten it down on the bench; resist the temptation/don't do it. You want some wiggle room on the brass fitting lest you strip the brake line threading it on. I've seen it happen many times.
Instead, thread the banjo bolt into the MC a few turns, not forgetting the copper crush washers. This can be done on the bench, but leave it loose. You should have a sandwich of banjo bolt, washer, brass fitting, washer, MC. Refit the MC, using the hands of a 10 yeer old child
Then start the brake line onto the brass fitting a few turns. Wiggle as needed to ensure you are not cross threading anything.
Some folks fit the brake line onto the brass L first; I've found it alost impossible fit the copper washers doing it that way.
Use a LARGE open end wrench a half flat at a time and ALOT of patience to tighten the banjo bolt. Access is really tight back there.
Barry-
You don't need to line the bolt up exactly; the "banjo bolt" can sit at any position and still flow brake fluid. The "shank" / bolt shoulder is drilled and cut down to allow brake pressure at any position and the 90deg brass elbow is mostly hollow. Fluid flows at any position when tightened.
You'll be tempted to align it and tighten it down on the bench; resist the temptation/don't do it. You want some wiggle room on the brass fitting lest you strip the brake line threading it on. I've seen it happen many times.
Instead, thread the banjo bolt into the MC a few turns, not forgetting the copper crush washers. This can be done on the bench, but leave it loose. You should have a sandwich of banjo bolt, washer, brass fitting, washer, MC. Refit the MC, using the hands of a 10 yeer old child
Then start the brake line onto the brass fitting a few turns. Wiggle as needed to ensure you are not cross threading anything. Some folks fit the brake line onto the brass L first; I've found it alost impossible fit the copper washers doing it that way.
Use a LARGE open end wrench a half flat at a time and ALOT of patience to tighten the banjo bolt. Access is really tight back there.
OP
Baz
Yoda
Offline
Re: Brake Master
Scott, that is very much appreciated.
I've had this thing on the bench all day, and yes, was ready to tighten, clamp down and then refit.
This was the trick I was looking for, as the books are somewhat derelict in this process.
I owe you a pint. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
Scott, that is very much appreciated.
I've had this thing on the bench all day, and yes, was ready to tighten, clamp down and then refit.
This was the trick I was looking for, as the books are somewhat derelict in this process.
I owe you a pint. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Re: Brake Master
Just make sure you've got an open-end wrench that fits the bolt!
Just make sure you've got an open-end wrench that fits the bolt!
Re: Brake Master
Scott - I just reinstalled my pedal assembly yesterday and left the banjo bolts loose as you mentioned in your note.
The problem was, there isn't enough room for a wrench once you have it installed. I could reach the clutch MC from the other side of the firewall, but there's no way I could reach that back brake MC fitting. I temporarly hooked up the hard line and marked the location w/ a marker, took the thing out again (oh bother) and tightened up the fitting.
Do you have a wrench you can actually get in there? Your paint doesn't look scratched, so you must have some magic touch.
Scott - I just reinstalled my pedal assembly yesterday and left the banjo bolts loose as you mentioned in your note.
The problem was, there isn't enough room for a wrench once you have it installed. I could reach the clutch MC from the other side of the firewall, but there's no way I could reach that back brake MC fitting. I temporarly hooked up the hard line and marked the location w/ a marker, took the thing out again (oh bother) and tightened up the fitting.
Do you have a wrench you can actually get in there? Your paint doesn't look scratched, so you must have some magic touch.
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Re: Brake Master
Sorry to hear you had to R+R. It's been a while, but I absolutely have a wrench that fits back there. Did you disconnect the forward line?
PaulP said:
Sorry to hear you had to R+R. It's been a while, but I absolutely have a wrench that fits back there. Did you disconnect the forward line?
Re: Brake Master
Yep - I had all 3 lines disconnected. I reconnected the rear brake and clutch lines first (so that I was sure I had the banjos oriented correctly) and the front brake fitting last.
I don't see how it can be done, what with the fitting angled the way it is and being so close to the pedal box support bracket.
Sure would be interesting to be able to see how these cars were built at the factory.
Thanks - Paul
Yep - I had all 3 lines disconnected. I reconnected the rear brake and clutch lines first (so that I was sure I had the banjos oriented correctly) and the front brake fitting last.
I don't see how it can be done, what with the fitting angled the way it is and being so close to the pedal box support bracket.
Sure would be interesting to be able to see how these cars were built at the factory.
Thanks - Paul
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Re: Brake Master
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Sure would be interesting to be able to see how these cars were built at the factory.[/QUOTE]
Pedal box assembly was installed before the dash - that big rectangular rubber 'grommet' behind the pedal box assembly is there just to provide room to do what you're trying to do.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Sure would be interesting to be able to see how these cars were built at the factory.[/QUOTE]
Pedal box assembly was installed before the dash - that big rectangular rubber 'grommet' behind the pedal box assembly is there just to provide room to do what you're trying to do.