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T-Series Clutch Master

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Baz

Baz

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I've never seen what a 'good' one looks like, so I can't compare. The PO did mention an unknown loss of clutch fluid, he thought maybe from the slave, but I've just got the box off, and can visibly see a gap between the piston and the rubber.
Again, I don't know what's normal, but would this gap possibly be responsible for a fluid loss?
BTW, the PO also said there was a problem with the brakes and suspected the master cylinder.....turned out he only had one pad on RH caliper....
6030e9da3dd831876211e5868f3c689e0_large.jpg
 
I think the grey cap on the right is just a dust seal. If the shaft is wet with fluid it will def need a rebuild.

If the bore shows any signs of pitting, the rebuild will likely leak as well.

Hard to tell from the photo, but looks like the pushrod might be bent? Might want to replace the through bolt with a clevis; I wonder if the pushrod yoke is ovalled.

While you have the pedal box cover off, might be a good time to remove the pivot bolt and lube it. Getting everything lined up and back together is a fiddle.
 
Thanks Scott, the pushrod is OK, just the angle and the condition of the dust cover.
No wetness as the think hasn't ran since 1991, probably been dry all that time.
I'll just whip em both out and get them rebuilt.....along with other newly discovered problem bits.
All that will be removed anyway, as I need to treat the rust.
 
Hang on a minute....
Are the Brake/Clutch master cylinders for the (my year) B and (my year) Midget the same?
 
Ahh, that could've been a $$$ saver.
What's the difference between rebuilding and resleeving?
 
Rebuilding generally just includes a light honing and replacement of seals. Resleeving requires that the cylinder be bored and a sleeve pressed into place. This is usually done to salvage rusted or pitted cylinders that are too far gone for a normal rebuild to be effective.
Jeff
 
No sense starting a new thread for a related question. The rebuild kit I bought does not have the same seals as my MC. The kit is for the right year , but I think the MC may be from an earlier model. Other than needing to get the right kit is there any issue using the older MC? Keith
 
Baz said:
I've never seen what a 'good' one looks like, so I can't compare. The PO did mention an unknown loss of clutch fluid, he thought maybe from the slave, but I've just got the box off, and can visibly see a gap between the piston and the rubber.
Again, I don't know what's normal, but would this gap possibly be responsible for a fluid loss?
BTW, the PO also said there was a problem with the brakes and suspected the master cylinder.....turned out he only had one pad on RH caliper....
6030e9da3dd831876211e5868f3c689e0_large.jpg
Click to expand...

Is there something wrong with this photo, or am I looking at it wrong? The master cylinders seem to be on the wrong side. RH drive?? Remember, it's early in the day yet.
rolleye0012.gif


NEVER MIND! NEVER MIND! I'VE GOT IT. I told you it was early in the day.
indifferent0023.gif
You know, as things get older, they take longer to initiate, especially the brain.
ashamed0003.gif
 
There's no problem that I know of with using an early MC on a later car...but, there's something way wrong with that dust cover!
 
And it's too fuzzy to tell if the rod from the clutch MC is kinked or it just has a shadow making it look so.
 
The rod is nice and straight, the dust cover has gunk on that one side that makes it looked kinked.
They're both coming out this weekend and shipped off to whoknowswhere for a rebuilding anyway, along with the clutch slave and Midget brake master.
Early christmas for someone..... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif
 
You're gonna be LBC-less?!?! GAH!
 
DrEntropy said:
You're gonna be LBC-less?!?! GAH!
Click to expand...
I already am.....
Should be a pretty quick turnover of the hydraulics I think.
Can I still start the car with no clutch MC or SC? Obviously in neutral.
 
yup. Just insure there's nothin' danglin' down in th' whirly bits. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Gents,
I'm going to give rebuilding a try myself.
I have spare cylinders of each I can play with, brake MC and clutch SC as well. I've heard it's a PITA, but I'm just too cheap.
 
No PITA at all. Just hone 'em lightly with a slow, in-and-out motion 'til the length of the bore is uniform. Use light oil (I generally use Marvel).

Inspect the bore carefully for pits. They can be elusive and "scab" over. Use a pick tool to dig at any odd spots. If the bore has pits it needs sleeving.

Disassembly/reassembly is not that big a deal once you see how it's done. The two sided brake MC's will be the only ones to give you challenge on teardown.
 
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