Spitfire Clutch Master question, 78 Spit

[Joe_Pinehill]

I found a small drip of clutch fluid near the bracket holding the clutch master. I ran my hands all around the master, lifted the boot, looked from inside at the linkages to the pedal, checked the line, and I cant see or feel any kind of leak of fluid.

I have a rebuild kit on hand, but any ideas on checking leaks?

I'm guessing its the original, it has the old style metal cap

Do you ever get slosh of fluid through the vent hole?

 

[cjm]

i use talc to help locate leaks.spread it around area to be investigated, use item, in this case clutch, helps to reveal area. hope this is of some help.

 

[guzzul]

I think you can get some fluid up through that vent hole if the reservoir is too full, but I would think that would leave a 'trail' down the cylinder, or else just drip down right below the reservoir. If you're seeing fluid down by the bracket where the boot is, that's not a good sign.

If its the orginal master (sounds like) and if you already have a kit, now would be a good time to think about installing it. The only other place fluid can get out is at the bottom of that cylinder or where the hydraulic line screws in.

 

[Joe_Pinehill]

Are rebuilds of clutch masters usually successful? Many of the posting on Brake Masters seem like its not worth trying, but since the clutch is alloy, I would think pitting is not a problem?

Any tips on a rebuilding? I was free on Sunday anyway.

 

[guzzul]

I think it comes down to the condition of the cylinder itself. Pitting is always a potential problem as in brakes. Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic. But you're not going to know without pulling it apart. Maybe the cylinder is fine. If it's just a case of worn seals it could be an easy fix.

Not much to add in the way of 'tips'. Before starting in I would check the slave cylinder bleed screw, free it up and make sure you can open it - just so you don't have a nasty surprise when you come to bleed it after having everything pulled apart. Have a rubber cap on hand to plug the line into the master cylinder when you disconnect it, and make sure you put a towel on the bulkhead to catch any hydraulic fluid drips when you detach it. After disconnecting the pedal clevis pin and unscrewing the slave feed line you can just remove the whole cylinder, fluid and all.

Check the cylinder for any significant scoring or pitting. If not, just give it a light polish with very fine sandpaper before reassembling with new seals. I use a piece of dowel with paper wrapped around it and do it by hand.

 

[Joe_Pinehill]

thanks, I just replaced the slave about a month ago, so I should be fine freeing the bleeder