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Tips

clutch line

healeyboz

Jedi Knight
Offline
Anyone have a line on where to get the adapter that connects the metal clutch line to the rubber line. (slave)
 
I don't have a rubber line to my slave! Just a couple of coils to allow vibration damping!
 
The only ones I have with a hose to the slave are the original 1275 cars. Bugeyes and 1098's all have hard lines to the slave.
Jeff
 
I have a 1275 ribbed transmission. I have a steel braided line running from the slave. None of the local stores have british connections, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif so I can't connect the steel line that comes from the master to the steel braided. P.S. tandem master.
 
I was amazed at the amount of stuff my advance auto had. They had british to standard and britis to metic and standard to metric, plus they had precut lines that did the same. I ended up getting a premade line that went from british to metric for my datsun slave cylinder.
 
Really? Maybe I should try them again? I got all of my lines there but not any of the connectors. Another question that I am pondering is if the id is the same for the steel line and the steel braided line? If they are different hydraulics will not work correctly??
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Another question that I am pondering is if the id is the same for the steel line and the steel braided line? If they are different hydraulics will not work correctly?? [/QUOTE]

Once bled, that will be no issue. The fluid displaced by the respective "end devices" (master and slave) will be "practically" the same.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
Worse comes to worse. Get a new line that is british to standard. I'm thinking the new hose will be standard. Then get a standard to standard connector. I went through about the same deal you are going through trying to find a connector that went from British to metric then I found the premade lines that went from british to metric at advance. I bought a bunch of stuff that I probably will never use. If you can't find what you need I may have it. I just can't get around right now after knee surgery. I would take the hose with me to advance and I bet you can find what you need. The new lines are in lenghts of 18" to 60" and are cheap. Mine was 6 bucks and the nuts are already on it.
 
Thanks Kim! I hope you recoupe soon.

I actually found an adapter that I think might work. Doc doesn't think that the diameter of the steel line and the braided steel line being different will make a diff. It is only slightly diff. The adapter that I found is very different. The hole that the fluid is supposed to pass through is considerably smaller. Will this make a difference? I figure I will hook it all up and bleed. Test to see how it works................

And drill the adapter out if needed.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

Just be sure to clean out th' swarf! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Good luck bleeding it. I learned at trick to bleed it in reverse if you can't get it to bleed and don't have a pump that is made for bleeding hydrualics. You run a hose from the brake wheel cylinder near the clutch slave to the slave and open both bleeders. Then loosen the line near the clutch master so air can come out and then press the brake pedal. The brake fluid will come out of the wheel cylinder and into the clutch slave and push all the air out at the clutch master. It works like a charm and comes in handy when you are not near home and lose the clutch due to a leak or something.
 
SURVIVAL techniques!

Great trick, Kim! Stuff that in the Knowledge Base!
 
Another one of those, why did I not think of that.
 
THanks for the trick, however, how much of a mess does this cause? I would think quite a bit with fluid pushing all over the master.
 
Lots of rags, and you must understand that this is an emergency situation when all else fails.
 
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