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TR6 Clutch issues

Ribbs

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I've only owned my 1973 TR6 since Spring this year and I'm slowly addressing issues. The most irritating now is clutch related. Everything is fine on a cold engine, but once things warm up, I have difficulty shifting, including shifting into 1st from a dead stop. I'm guessing that the clutch is not fully disengaging, but not sure why it's not a problem with a cold system. Of course I tried bleeding at the slave cylinder, but that did not help the situation. I've also got a situation where one of the cylinders always sticks briefly when bringing my foot off the pedal. The cost of both new master and slave cylinders isn't so bad as to lead me to simply replacing both for that issue. I would think that would cure the stickiness, but not sure it will solve the heat related issue. Has anyone else run into this? Any ideas would be much appreciated!
 

TRopic6

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Welcome to the TR6 club! I had a similar condition (difficult gear operation at operating temp) and discounted a broken clutch fork pin because the car had 22K original miles. But after nothing else fixed it, that's what it turned out to be. I replaced the fork pin and added a 1/4" roll pin.
 

TR3driver

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Does the clutch engage right at the floor when it is working? If so, your problem might be as simple as accumulated wear at all the linkage pivot points.
The TR6 doesn't have a lot of allowance for wear, and oiling the pivots is often overlooked. The pins are easy to replace, but the holes wear too.
On my Stag, the holes in the pedal were worn so badly that I had to ream and fit an oversize pin. Another option would be to weld the hole, then drill and ream to original size; which is what I'll do next time.
 
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Ribbs

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Thanks Gents. It does in fact engage just off the floorboard, so I'll go back and look for wear. I'm also thinking about the clutch fork pin as that might explain the way the clutch briefly hangs and pops into engagement (not a sticky master/slave cylinder). Ugh, was hoping to avoid pulling the gearbox for awhile...
 
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TR3driver

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TR3driver

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Something else worth checking sooner rather than later is crankshaft end float. The half-thrust washer is a known weak spot in the TR6, and can wear so badly that it becomes a clutch issue.

For a quick and dirty check, let the engine idle in neutral for a moment, then shut it off and watch the front pulley carefully while some one else pushes the clutch for you. If you can see any movement at all, you have a problem.

In extreme cases, the thrust washer half can fall into the pan, which suddenly takes it from a relatively minor repair to a major one. If you can see movement, I suggest not driving the car at all until you can investigate further. Once the TW falls out, the crankshaft starts eating its way into the block, to the detriment of both of them.
 
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Ribbs

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I finally got around to pulling the gearbox to have a further look at the sticky clutch issue and inability to fully disengage with a warm engine. I did confirm that the thrust washer was doing it's thing prior to pulling, but I do wish I had tried changing out the master cylinder. A friend in the know referred to it as an inferior brand.

Likely the sticking is related to the issue addressed in the Buckeye Triumphs article linked by TR3driver above. I haven't checked actual clearances yet but it seems there is substantial play between the release bearing sleeve and front end cover. The other obvious issue is that the safety wired pinch bolt is allowing the fork to rotate slightly on the shaft. I also observed that the existing pressure plate is a LuK brand, so not the original.

While I have the gearbox out I will take the opportunity to replace the clutch, pressure plate, pinch bolt, release bearing and new brass sleeve. Between TRF and Moss, there are quite a few offerings here. I'm leaning towards TRF's Magic Clutch Kit, but interested in other's thoughts.
 
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