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Clutch Issues continue. FYI

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triumph_tim

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Just wanted everyone one to know that hasn't been through it yet that when re-doing your clutch in the tr6, make sure that when you put in the new throwout bearing, that the manufacturer includes the pin that the forks rest against to prevent the collar from spinning with the bearing, otherwise you will end up like me with hours upon hours of work to pull the tranny switch stuff out and replace again only to find out that it is neccessary to have that pin or else the entire time you have the clutch depressed it will make a whinning sound, almost the same as when your alternator belt is loose. Just wanted to let you all know that some manufacturers are selling the bearing and collar without the pin. (Bad Idea)This is now going on my 3rd time pulling the tranny in over three weeks. Only because of the help I received on this forum did I know how to do all this work. Until a few weesk ago I had never done this before, but it as been fun getting to know the car, but feel like Im spending more time fixing the cltuch than I am driving it. By the way, does it sound like my master cylinder for the clutch is going out if it tends to get harder to use the longer I drive. Feels like it is sticky the longer I use it. I bought and replaced the spring inside and the rubbers deal looks good, does anyone know why that might be happening. I have taken it apart several time and cleaned it with no luck.
 
Tim,

What clutch components/kit did you wind up going with?

The thing about the anti-rotation pin being absent would allow the bearing sleeve/carrier to spin on the input shaft cover some. When the clutch pedal is depressed enough to disengage the clutch there should be sufficient force applied by the fork against the bearing sleeve to arrest the sleeve at that point so that it does not continue to spin; the bearing should do all the spinning at that point. So if you are hearing a whine still, I'd suspect it has more to do with the bearing itself. The only thing I can think that might cause the sleeve to still spin is if the bearing were frozen up/bad. But even then, I think the fork pressure would hold the sleeve still and maybe the bearing would be scraping against the pressure plate fingers.

I don't know what might be causing the progressively harder clutch pedal. Perhaps some more knowledgable/experienced folks will be along.
 
There's a wealth of good info on the Buckeye site in regards to the TR clutch. I'm not so sure I'd go the Gunst route but I used a fair bit of this info when renewing my 6 clutch (with the BPNW Sachs kit)

ClutchGeneral


<a href="https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/StickyClutch/StickyClutch.htm
" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">StickyClutch</a>
 
another thing you might check is the peddles, their are busings in those that wear out. mine were missing, you have to pull the peddle box out, and then take the rod out and pull the peddles out and see if the bushings are there, I ended up getting some bronze bushings and pressing them in, drill some holes and then put some grease fittings so you can grease them

Hondo
 
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