• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG board

Share this page

Welcome aboard, I am sure after a few posts this group will have you up and running in no time. They have already sent you down a good path.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark. I hope I can get it running. Project two will be fixing the wipers. I think actually being able to shift is a good place to start though.

Ok, I started getting the mouse nests from the winter out of the trunk and the battery compartment. darn rodents.

I will let you know how it goes tomorrow.

Ari
 
If it is the slave, you can rebuild them from below, leaving it in place (assuming it is similar the one in my '63, which it should be). Very simple to do, three parts or so. Bleeding all the air out is the really trying part. Good thing you have kids, good for pumping pedals during bleeding (EZ bleed or not, it seems old fashioned bleeding is always part of the process). I put a "speed bleeder" type bleed nipple on mine which makes it easier for a one man job (my kids are now wise to the bleeding routine and run when they see me with brake fluid in my hand). You're probably wasting your time bleeding it before you rebuild or replace the slave but then again, I'd probably try it too, while I waited for a rebuild kit to arrive in the mail.
Welcome.
'73 is a good year, ain't no '63 but good none the less.
 
The whole rebuilding from below thing has me nervous. I have never done that before. I purchased a good jack and some stands to put the car on. When jacking up the Midget for a tire there is the provided lift point for the standard MG jack. Where is the safest place to jack up the Midget with a standard jack and should I raise up the rear end or the front for best access to the Slave. I recognize the car is not that big and it may not matter. But I figure there is a preference.


Thanks
Ari
 
Rebuilding is easy - we can talk you through that. When you say proper jack, I presume you mean a floor jack. I either jack against a suspension component or under the cross beam at the front under the engine. At the back, either the axle, or the differential or in a pinch (and with a piece of 2X4) where the front springs attach to the floor. NEVER jack on the floor sheet metal as it will buckle.

You want to block the rear wheels and jack up the front. The slave is attached to the side of the transmission. For that kind of work, I actually prefer the car completely in the air on four jackstands, then there is lots of room to move and no danger of the car rolling.

Coming back to the rebuild, you are talking about replacing rubber seals - so, once you have it apart, it's all about cleanliness and getting it back in the right order. My experience is 1500 Midgets, I can't recall how similar they are. If you buy the slave rebuild kit, but the master as well and and new hose do it all, - it's not expensive and then you don't have to worry.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

I usually jack under the differential with a small block of wood between, raise it high and put jack stands under the the axles. Front I just from the cross member, hunk of wood again to distribute the weight. Block the opposite axle as you jack of course. Axle stands there too, all four corners nice and high (sometimes better to do it in stages so one end isn't so high up that the other is too low to jack) and plenty of room to crawl under to do the rebuild.
As I recall, the slave rebuild consists of removing the pin to detach the slave pushrod from the fork. Take off dust boot, take out C clip, extract rod, piston, remove rubber seal, replace with new, reassemble and bleed.
Really very easy
Items 35/38/39, those parts (see link). Rebuild kit is $9. I wouldn't touch the master at all unless it is suspect. Those are a bit of pain.
Moss Diagram
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

I've never seen a leaking slave cylinder that didn't have a corroded bore. At the very minimum you need to hone it after doing ivandike's steps to get rid of the corrosion pits and smooth out the bore. Otherwise it'll leak again.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

I don't remember honing my slave, swiping with my finger and looking closely it seemed decent and must be as it doesn't leak. Although, now that you mention it, it could still be letting pressure pass internally and not getting good clutch effect and I do have a bit of an issue with good clutch. Is that a plausible scenario? Slave seal doesn't quite hold up the pressure so you don't get good travel? Hmmm maybe just swapping in a new is better in the end anyway. I'm becoming a convert. Now, on my master cylinder I wasted a lot of time and trouble trying to rebuild it when it's bore was too far gone (pitted and chewing up seals) that I did hone out (carefully). Still a $9 rebuild kit vs. a $300 master.....(or a $60 slave). This is becoming a thread hijack, sorry.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

No worries. All this is great info.

Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks!
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

jvandyke said:
Still a $9 rebuild kit vs. a $300 master.....(or a $60 slave).
Click to expand...

and that's my point, everything rebuilt fine on my car except the clutch master - but, to my mind, the low cost of the kits always makes it worth a try.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

I agree, worth a try. I did find a rebuildable master for $25 so I still avoided the $300.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

I ended up replacing slave and master with new and 10 years later knock on wood still working, master leaks a tiny bit of fluid but that's part of owning a LBC. You will find that getting the bolt to the top hole on the slave is next to impossible with the engine in the car. One solution the racer's use is to take a grind off the edge of the mounting ear/ cut a slot in the mounting ear such that you can have the top bolt partly started. Then slide the slave into place, mounting ear slides in sideways under top bolt, and insert bottom bolt. Tighten up both and you are home free.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

Or mount the slave as you are putting the engine and trany back in.
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

Well.... OK so there was a leak in the system. In fact both the slave and the Master. It was to much for just me, so I took it in to a good MG mechanic and he replaced both. He showed me the parts from the old slave and someone previous to my ownership had done a butcher job welding the rod. It was a mess.

But the car now runs great (for now...) and I took it out, dropped the top and turned heads. Everyone loves the Midget. Lots of people leaning out windows asking "what is that?!"

Now I can move on to replacing that reverse lamp (which arrived today from victoria british). That I know I can do.

I am also saving up for a new clutch.... just to be safe.

Thanks guys!

If anyone is in or will be in PA please drop me a line.

Cheers
Ari
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

earlgrey said:
Now I can move on to replacing that reverse lamp (which arrived today from victoria british). That I know I can do.Cheers
Ari
Click to expand...

Great news! It is wonderful the attention you get, women and children LOVE these cars.

The reason I quoted above is this - post needs here first - I have reverse lights (at least lenses) that you could have had for free. We're a pretty resourceful bunch and we like to share :cheers:
 
Re: Clutch issue with 1973 Midget, moved from MG b

aha! well next time I will make sure to ask :smile:

Cheers
Ari
 
Back
Top