T-Series Clutch hose replacement

[Scott_Hower]

Whilst cleaning the starter solenoid lug, I noticed the clutch hose seemed to be at a weird "angle". Looks like the clutch hose is screwed into the bleeder fitting and vice versa. I wonder what idiot did that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif. Can the hose be changed with the starter in-situ? Doesn't look like there's much room to swing a wrench from the top. I don't mind pulling the starter, just curious if it can be done without it.

 

[DrEntropy]

It CAN be done, just a PITA job. Drop the slave off the housing *after* you've loosened the hose fitting a bit and try to be ~quick~. Messy job; brake fluid y'see.

That said: I'd do it... but I'm a masochist! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

 

[kennypinkerton]

It's worth the extra 5 minutes to pull the starter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

New slave cylinders come packed with the bleeder screw in the hose fittings to fit the box they use better... Sounds like someone didn't switch 'em when they put in the new slave cylinder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

Disconnect battery, fuss with the starter, STILL wind up with brake fluid down yer arms, in yer (in your case) hair... I'd go right for the heart... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

 

[vping]

At the same stage for me. Decided to pull the starter. Much easier this way although it is the original starter & you know the old saying "let sleeping dogs lie". This 39 year old might have been fine undisturbed.

I am going to try and rebuild the clutch slave.

Questions are:
Piston is pushed all the out which in turn holds the fork open?
1. When I removed the cotter pin, the piston fell out. Is that right?
(Both master & slave are filled with thick brown mud.)
2. Any tips on the slave & master rebuilds?
3. What should I look for to determine if they can be re-built or replaced?

 

[kennypinkerton]

I just bought new ones for my car... Didn't cost much - I got a kit from VB that included all the parts for about $120 or so. Don't forget to flush the hardlines... you don't want that brown crud fouling up your new parts. Good luck.

 

[Scott_Hower]

[ QUOTE ]

I am going to try and rebuild the clutch slave.

2. Any tips on the slave & master rebuilds?


[/ QUOTE ]

Tips?

Dont bother. The slave is about $35 on sale; it is simply not worth the hassle. The master is a bit more, but if it leaks and needs to be wrestled back out, you'll wish 10x over you had bought a new one to begin with.

Trust me, it simply is not worth it.

 

[kennypinkerton]

The thing that fell out when you pulled the cotter pin is just a pushrod... check it for wear or elongation of the hingepin hole area of it. Check the hingepin on the master cylinder too where the pedal is connected to it.

 

[DrEntropy]

It goes to my nature to rebuild stuff... but for $35 the slave would be an acceptable deal. The flex hose is what I'd always replace on an older car. The MC gets a rebuild unless it's pitted badly. Getting TO it to R&R is the challenging bit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[vping]

OH MY!!

https://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jvping/alb...vping/my_photos

I am of the rebuiling type myself and already purchased the kits. (As was discussed in another thread)

I can see why the clutch did not work for the PO.
I'll give the parts a good cleaning & post for "to rebuild or not to rebuild"

 

[DrEntropy]

ACK!!! The inside of your MC looks like the seals were liquified. PO likely poured anything wot said "Brake Fluid" on the container in there. Not much can "melt" that mess. Acetone or laquer thinner are about all I'd think would do it. Flush the steel line well or it'll be back in the slave on the second push. And again: YUK!!!

 

[DrEntropy]

Did you get a brake cylinder hone? That is the way to surface the bores of slave and MC to check for pits, etc.

I hope your brake hydraulics don't look that bad internally. Tho if the PO used "AllSorts" fluid in the clutch, why would the brakes be any different?

 

[jlaird]

There is a thread someplace that tells how to make a thing from an intertube to flush the lines. I'd do em all at the same time for sure.

 

[vping]

I was going to place another order and get the pipe from MC to slave but want to make aure I do not need anything else.

The BMC is inexcellent shape and I think only the cailpers & wheel cylinders need some work. I bought the rebuild for it anyway and will do that after the brakes.

I did not get the hone yet. Is this something that my local parts place will have. Is it a certain size or one size fits all?

Got my work cut out for me.

 

[kennypinkerton]

Ewwwwww. Groty. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/pukeface.gif That's nastier than mine was when I took mine off.

 

[DrEntropy]

You're doin' jus' fine. You can get a hone at NAPA or about any good parts house. "Ammco" is my preferred brand simply because you can count on finding replacement stones for 'em. Can't expect to do that with a "no-name" outfit. The Ammco is a spring-loaded adjustable, drive it with a variable speed drill. SLOW and in-and-out motion are the "right" way. Looking to "cross-hatch" the bore much like a cylinder wall in a block.

HEY! I oughta do a Tech Article, huh? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

 

[vping]

You can use my pics if you want. I'll be posting thema as soon as I get it done. Article written by doc.
I am going out right now to NAPA.

How should I treat the cylinder. Wire wheel, scotch brite pad, 0000 steel wool?

Gee! The fun I am having!

 

[DrEntropy]

You write it!

Mineral spirits and a cheap natural bristle 1" paintbrush is all I'd use... With the way yours look the wire wheel may be more appropriate for the outside, tho! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Nunyas]

sooooooo.... uhm... I'd like to aviod liquification of future parts going into my B. What is the prefered fluid to be putting into the clutch system? DOT3?

 

[vping]

Next stop the garage!!