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Clutch fork shaft rebuild.

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BlueRidge2

Jedi Hopeful
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I was just ready to put my transmission in when I noticed a lot of play in the clutch fork shaft. I see that moss has a kit to rebuild it that has the shaft, a tapered pin a 2 bushings. Anyone have any experience with doing this? If so
what is the process? Mine has a sloted screw threaded into the top of the shaft. I don't think it is supposed to be there since it is off center and i don't see anything like that in the moss break down. Do I remove the tapered pin to disassemble this unit? Moss part #330-405 illustration is on page 48 spring /summer 07 cataloge shaft #15
18 shows a screw that is na,is the fork held by the pin or screw? Sorry about all the questions but I can't seem to see well enough in the garage to see how to take this apart. Maybe if I take it outside in the daylight and recruit some eyes or glasses. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks Bob
 
Bob,

Here's some reading on the subject.

clutch fork thread

I have to run off but let us know what questions you still have.

Cheers,
John
 
Yep Bob, that slotted screw belongs there. Yes the tapered pin must be removed and the old bushes also, However, before you try, better go read all those good things in the post John referred you to. Then you just might want to look up a good machinist--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Thanks Keoke, Thats some good information to know. I had not even thought about the seal. I may be looking at excessive play on the transmission shaft. Does this require a complete transmission rebuild or can the front input bearing be replaced without tearing down the whole unit?
Mine is the side shift model Bn7 with out overdrive. I am glad John pointed out about bracing the pin as I would hate to crack the casting. I will aproach this with caution. Bob
 
No Bob , You can not remove the input shaft and bearing without dismantling the gear box and dropping the Cluster gear out of the way. However, if you have the bell housing off the tranny then the input shaft is subject to wiggle around because it is not shimmed and clamped securely in place as it is when the bell housing is attached.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Keoke, I have't removed the bellhousing yet. What would you define as an acceptable amount of end travel with the bellhousing in place? I will measure it tonight prior to removal. Looks like the bolt directly behind the fork shaft could be a bugger to access. I am going to try a swiveled socket when I get home tonight. I am going to hold off ordering the parts until I get it apart as I may be able to just replace the pin and the bushings. Are tappered pins a common item that I can pick up locally? Can I use a split rolled pin? Thanks Bob
 
Bob,

I'll send you a couple taper pins (I bought a pack of 10). I might even have a few bushes left over and will let you borrow the taper pin reamer (was necessary to allow the new pins to seat fully). I ordered all the items through McMaster Carr but don't mind helping you out with the extras gathering dust. Just PM me with your address.

Inspect the bell housing bolts carefully .. some have had problems with the threads .. mine were fine.

Cheers,
John
 
Hi Bob, if by end travel you mean the input shaft moving in and out or orbital about the shaft's central axis, the movement should be small. There are shims that go between the bearing's outer race and the bell housing that may have been omitted by Po's or simply need adding to. ---Keoke
 
Keoke, I planed to measure the movement at the end of the shaft with a dial indicator but... remembered that I was going to do so after I had just taken the bell housing off.
Anyway there are two metal shims that must be the one's that you are speaking of. I see now the tapered pin that protrudes through the fork and shaft and plan to place the bellhousing with a 5" piece of blocking and a small socket or pipe to capture the pin while I atempt to press it out on a hydraulic press. I am thinking this will keep the stress off the alumium casting that John had warned me about. Being tapered I think I may not cut the pin and try to push it out istead of trying to cut it off and try to fit a puch in the hole. I also see what John was refering to about that the shift rods must bump up against in the bellhousing. It looks like some kind of cusioning material.
like a thick gasket or old rubber. Thanks again guys for the advise Bob
 
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