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TR6 clutch for TR6

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hondo402000

hondo402000

Darth Vader
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well my clutch started chattering this past weekend so I think I need to start getting parts ready to install a new clutch, having read posts about clutch problems, I need to know what clutch assembly to buy? I will have the flywheel resurfaced, new T.O. Bearing, the toyota one, all new internals just which clutch is less trouble, I am going to hate this, pulling my new interior out to get to it, UGGH

thanks
HOndo
 
Of the three readily available, Sachs, Borg & Beck and the LUK, I'd go with Sachs or LUK.. I've heard many installers say way too many bad things about the B&B to ever want one. I personally had a LUK and had great luck with it, but I've also heard that the Sach's will stand up to abuse a little better.

As for a T/O bearing, I would go with the Toyota (Koyo) unit that TRF sells. I've also had a Gunst with good luck, but if you do that, I'd only use a LUK since that's what Gunst recommends.

With my modded motor, I'm running a HVDA hydraulic throw bearing and a Spec stage 2 clutch; made of Kevlar, it'll handle anything my little TR can throw at it and probably last longer than the car. But I'm weird like that.
 
I am running the Sachs clutch with a Koyo TO bearing. After two years it still has a good feel and clamps up well. I bought my set from British Pats Northwest.
 
Hondo:

And don't forget one important modification.

d

clutchbarmods.jpg
 
thanks all. I will start ordering the parts. I got a TRF christmas cat but cant find it I wonder if clutch parts are on sale???

thanks again
 
hondo402000 said:
I got a TRF christmas cat but cant find it I wonder if clutch parts are on sale???
Click to expand...
Yup. Did a quick search on their web site (which BTW has the Xmas catalog on-line), and almost all of the TR6 clutch parts are on sale until either Dec 15 or Jan 1. Even the Fidanza flywheel is on sale.
https://secure.zeni.net/trf/trf_desc_res...PTIO&model=t(6|[2-5][6-8])

I've been kind of staying out of this thread, since I've never owned a TR6; but I do have an original TR6 style clutch in my TR3A ... personally, I would go with the stock Luk components and pay careful attention to the problem areas that have been found. From what I've heard, it seems to me that it is the least troublesome setup, if you do the other things like ensure there is proper clearance between the carrier sleeve and the transmission nose, and radius the sharp corners inside the sleeve.

The reinforcing bolt Dale shows is de rigeur IMO, but I feel Loctite is adequate for the taper pin (which is really redundant with the bolt added anyway) and I wouldn't bother replacing the fork or drilling a new fork. (My fork was drilled to get the broken taper pin out.) Also make sure you have the two full diameter "dowel bolts" that locate the gearbox to the rear plate, not some ordinary 3/8" bolts stuck in those holes. (On the TR3A they were just dowels.) Since your problem is chatter, IMO it's also worthwhile to double-check that the dowels between the rear plate & engine block are in place.

I also like to replace the skinny bushings for the clutch shaft with the wide brass bushing from the TR3 (the one not drilled for a locking bolt). A grease zerk is also a good idea IMO if your gearbox/shaft doesn't already have one. The Stag had no room for a zerk on the shaft, so I added them to the gearbox housing (and drilled the bushings).

BTW, I do drive pretty hard, but rarely more than chirp the tires. Kind of hard to do with sticky 205/55 tires anyway. And I only got maybe 30,000 miles on the TR6 clutch & alloy flywheel before that idiot in the Toyota parked in my trunk. But it worked great until then.
 
If you are looking to add an aluminum flywheel I suggest ultrarev.com. No financial interest but they seem to have the best prices, slightly over $300 and usually sell them on ebay for $295.
 
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