• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Clutch/Flywheel Bolts

Share this page

Of all the freak deals. Today the rotating assembly came back from the balancer. The kids are learning to drive, so I let them drive me to and from the shop (twins). Of course, as with all new drivers, I'm going through my "slow down!", "Stop sign!!", etc. Even though I cautioned them about my 150lbs of parts in the back of the SUV, I could still hear them sliding around on some of the Waaay to fast turns the kids were taking.

Well, I get home, open the rear hatch and the crank comes falling out, all on its own! I saved the snout from taking the initial hit by sacrificing my foot, but ring bang it went on the garage floor. Bummer! Now I've got to go through the pains of checking for cracks or being bent. Of all the freak chances, that the crank could slide right up against the hatch like that. Next time I'll know to check...
 
Aw that sucks! Hope your toe is OK too.
 
I learned the hard way, luckily with no serious injury, that heavy objects need to be secured when the occupants and the cargo share the same space. Also find it unlikely that the relatively minor load from that fall would crack or bend the thing, but of course you need to check. It's certainly in good hands, though, and hope the toe fairs as well.
Tom
 
Just an update...crank checked good and got installed yesterday. So just a good lesson learned!

Oh...and the toe is fine. I managed to kick far enough that it hit my shin and rolled off...
 
Here's a question for you guys...

The manual states, " There are two dowel holes in the fly- wheel 90" removed from one another ; this will enable the flywheel to be turned 90" should the teeth of the starter ring gear become increasingly worn and a replacement not be readily available."

So, if your ring gear is worn, how does rotating the flywheel 90 degrees help?
 
The engine almost always stops at one of two points, 180 degrees apart from each other, where one cylinder is coming up on compression and there isn't quite enough momentum left to push it through TDC. So, those two points tend to wear the most on the ring gear, because that's where the starter drive always crashes into it. The wear we're talking about of course is the point of the teeth, similar to what you were talking about in the gearbox. So, by turning the flywheel 90 degrees, it brings up new points for the starter to crash into and hopefully grab the gear instead of sliding off and just grinding.

Once the two gears are engaged, the wear on the points doesn't matter.
 
Interesting...so the ring gear teeth wear in a 180 degree pattern. Thanks again, Randall!

And , I've run into another question...

What's the torque for the large front pulley/extension bolt? I've looked all over the service manual and can't seem to find it.
 
CJD said:
What's the torque for the large front pulley/extension bolt? I've looked all over the service manual and can't seem to find it.
Click to expand...
The only spec I've ever found is in the Stag ROM (which is obviously a different motor but similar size and function bolt), which gives 90-120 ftlb.

I just pull it up "good and tight" and leave it at that. T'aint rocket science.
 
Back
Top