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TR2/3/3A Clutch Engagement

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Redoakboo

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I have just finished a total restoration of a 1954 TR-2 Long Door. It has a new clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder. I have everything together and adjusted according to the specs. I have adjusted the slave cylinder rod according to the spec's and the transmission will go into all gears without grinding.

My problem is the clutch will not engage until the pedal is all the way to the top. I can shift to the gears but no engagement until the pedal is at the top? This creates a dangerous situation when you need to hit the brake in a hurry.

Any ideas on how make a adjustment to lower the engagement closer to the floor?

Dick
 
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Perhaps adjusting/shorting the rod at the master. I am not sure for tr2, but I believe a tr3 pedal by shorting the MC rod the pedal engagement goes down. I make sure the MC rod is short enough not to have pressure on the system when the MC is drawn back ,maybe a 1/8 of free play so I can hear it click free.

Steve
 
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Talking about master cylinders, the TR2 has stop nuts at the pedal adjustment that can also cause problems. You not only set the length of the master cylinder pushrod, which sets the height of the clutch pedal...but you also set the stop. If the stop is too far out, then the master cylinder will not bleed. If you can't get the fluid to flow when bleeding, then check that the pedal stop is not too far out.
 
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CJD said:
Talking about master cylinders, the TR2 has stop nuts at the pedal adjustment that can also cause problems. You not only set the length of the master cylinder pushrod, which sets the height of the clutch pedal...but you also set the stop. If the stop is too far out, then the master cylinder will not bleed. If you can't get the fluid to flow when bleeding, then check that the pedal stop is not too far out.
Click to expand...
I think I have the gap set at .039
 
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CJD said:
Talking about master cylinders, the TR2 has stop nuts at the pedal adjustment that can also cause problems. You not only set the length of the master cylinder pushrod, which sets the height of the clutch pedal...but you also set the stop. If the stop is too far out, then the master cylinder will not bleed. If you can't get the fluid to flow when bleeding, then check that the pedal stop is not too far out.
Click to expand...
John,
I have the master cylinder bolt gap set at .039 In your 13 step adjustment, #1 I don't understand what you are referring to as the master rod? Are you calling the arm with the clutch pedal attached? Is the 7" from the floor to the bottom of the clutch pedal steel pad? It that['s correct, is seems to ,be about 7". And when I let it up, the master cylinder piston does return to the .039 gap. #4 How do you prime the master cylinder, not the slave cylinder.

Dick
 
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karls59tr said:
I believe sp53 wants to discuss the adjustment of the rod that comes out of the MC. Adjustment there may help you with the problems you are having.
Click to expand...
You were right as the problem was not with the slave cylinder it was adjustment of the threaded rod in the MC. We moved it back about 1", shifts great now.

Thanks for your help. Dick
 
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