• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

T-Series CLUTCH BLEEDING PROBLEMS

Share this page

B

Bumble_Bee

Freshman Member
Offline
It's been a while since I posted this...but I'm still having problems. I bought another master cyl. and just can't get enuf clutch to shift. I have bench bled the MC...bled and reverse bled the system. I've had it!!!
FYI...during this frustration I bought a 1975 Corvette Roadster....I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. Does anyone want to buy a 1956 MGA Roadster? I have more $$$ in it than it's worth...I am done with spending more $$$ on it...it's to the point I hate working on it. anyone interested?
Thanks, Larry
 
I can see you're frustrated like I was with that problem on my B. ll I can tell you is that I built myself a reverse pressure bleed system with my air compressor, hoses and bottles, bled it from the bottom up and it worked perfectly after that and has been for over a year now. When I pressure bled it I'll bet I put 2pts of brake fluid in from the bottom up to be sure I had every last bit of air out. Slowly too so you don't cavitate over some valve or orifice and make it worse! You also need to be sure your slave cylinder is new and not causing the problem.

What are your symptoms??
 
Thanks for your reply,,,there was NO clutch pressure at all. I did what you said about the reverse bleeding still nothing. I then took out the clutch rod and stuck a screwdriver into the slave cylinder and opened the bleeder screw at the same time. When the slave piston bottomed out, I closed the bleeder. After marking the screwdriver where the clutch rod gets pinned into the clutch arm. I welded a piece about 1 1/2 inches to the slave cyl. end of the pin. Did the reverse bleeding again and closed the screw. I now have clutch. I think my blood pressure is low enuf for me to take it for a spin. Why did I have to extend the clutch rod to get clutch? BTW...new master, new slave, new lines, new hose, new pressure plate, new clutch plate, new release bearing...and new brake fluid. Did I over-do the fix? I don't know....but at least I eliminated what made sense to me. Thanks for your reply...got any thoughts?
Thanks, Larry
 
I CAN FEEL YOUR PAIN!!!
I JUST HAD THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM YESTERDAY WITH THE '70 MIDGET THAT JUST GOT THE NEW ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION OVER THE WEEKEND.
WE GRAVITY BELD; WE VACUUM BLED; WE REVERSE BLED WITH A PHOENIX SYSTEM; THE ONLY THING THAT WORKED WAS THE OLD FASHION PUMP IT UP AND HOLD IT WHILE YOUR PARTNER OPENED AND CLOSED THE BLEEDER SCREW.
THE GUY PUMPING VIGOROUSLY PUMPED 10 T0 15 PUMPS AND THAT DISLODGED THE AIR BUBBLE. PROBLEM SOLVED.
I LIVE IN PLATTEVILLE,WI. WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED? POSSIBLY I COULD MOTOR TO YOUR LOCATION AND LEND A HAND.
ANOTHER SUGGESTION IS THAT WHILE PUMPING: DEPRESS THE CLUTCH AND LET IT RETURN SLOWWWWWWWWWWLY AND REPEAT SEVERAL TIMES TO ALLOW THE FLUID TO BE DRAWN THROUGH AND HOPEFULLY MOVE THE BUBBLE. I KNOW THIS IS CONTRARY TO THE OTHER SUGGESTION; BUT THESE ARE CONTRARY SYSTEMS TO BEGIN WITH LOL.
OTHERWISE WHAT ARE YOU ASKING FOR THE MGA?
YOU CAN CALL ME AT 608-348-7980 7AM TO 11PM DAILY IF YOU THINK I CAN BE OF HELP. Doug
 
Bumble_Bee - Have you checked all of the clutch linkages (pedal, master cylinder rod, slave rod, clutch fork ends for excessive wear, all of the clvis pins for wear, clutch fork bushing and fork pivot bolt for wear. Wear on all of these items can add up in a big hurry, leaving you with very little clutch movement.
Cheers,
 
Miss Agathas clutch rod wound up having to be a quarter inch almost shorter to get the pedal correct and I have had to change the rod length on other Bugeyes as well.

I think it has to do with the parts we use, not quite the same size as the orginals.
 
Thanks for the reply. I had a guy from Pulaski, Wi. tell me it is worth $13,000 (I DOUBT IT). My son took the body off and there is all fresh body panels where needed. He had a body shop do the body work and paint. VERY limited body filler...probably less than when it came from the factory. There is new master/slave/clutch, pressure plate, carpet, headlites, brake shoes, brake cylinders, paint, fender welting, electrical wiring (old style). The speedo works but the trip and odometer doesn't. The tach is not hooked up..I think there is something missing. the windshield needs to be replaced. New fuel pump...and negative ground. There is a lot more new parts then I can remember right noew. It IS NOT a professional restoration, but is is in my opinion 85% to 90% there. It is definately a nice driver. I do have new control arm bushings that have not been installed along with the new steering control boots. Anywhow...e me @ red75ride@yahoo.com and I will send pics. Thanks, Larry BTW..I got the clutch to work at least for right now.
 
Sigh, and no hope for the future either.
 
Thanks for the reply...and no I did not check out ALL of those. I guess I didn't think to do that. You are right tho'...if you add up all of the out-of-tolerance pieces it might add up to a bunch.
 
Back
Top